Sunday, April 5, 2009

The OBED

I finally made it out to the famous Obed climbing area on Saturday.  It is very well known around TN for it's tough array of sport climbing, giant roofs, and solid trad.  Plus, it's located next to beautiful Clear Creek.  It reminds me of a mix of Foster Falls climbing with Linville Gorge-esque landscape.  It's nice for sure.

The day started much too early, 6:15am wake up, which was amplified by a much too late bed time. :(  I got some much needed rest on the drive though.  Once there, two others and I quickly broke off to explore some trad.  We first hit up a short 5.7/5.8 crack.  However, either the leader climbed too high or the anchor was elusive.  He improvised with a some gear placements and a bolt, and we all got to climb it.  It was ok - maybe not worth the long hike and time though.  

I then joined the rest of the group at Image Wall while the two other guys jumped on a 5.10c.  Over there, I climbed a steep 10 after much hang-doggin.  Then, I led a stiff 5.7 sport.  The group then migrated over to the balcony area.  Along the way we saw some sick roofs. 

I spotted a 5.6 trad climb in the guidebook that I wanted to lead, so I went over there with another guy.  After about 20ft and two nuts, I came to a little roof and hand traverse which seemed pretty tough.  I was doubting my ability and my gear selection, so I down-climbed and cleaned the two stoppers.  I got an experienced friend to come over with hopes of giving it another go.  He went ahead to lead it first.  He said it was definitely not a 5.6, and after further research, we discovered it was actually a 5.9 - good thing I had come down.  I went ahead and climbed it and enjoyed it.

Finally, I headed over to the balcony where the group had some 10s set up.  I decided to do a 5.8 crack variation.  It was a blast.  Most of the crack was about fist-jam/foot jam size with some stemming/dihedral action as well.  It was fairly tall and great practice.  That is my niche.  I may not be great at it, but I would prefer a crack over a face anyday.

We finally got outta there after sunset.  All in all, it was a 16hr trip but a lot of fun!  I'm sure I'll check out more of the Obed within the next year.  

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