A Day of Shredding - FINALLY

That is if you can possibly call my low-moderate grad lead climbing shredding. Anyway, I had a blast today. Four other interns and myself all went out for a full day worth of climbing - 7am to 7pm. Based on the recent rainy weather, we decided to head south to the desert landscape of Buena Vista's Turtle Rock rather than up to Independence Pass.

Down at Turtle, we setup 4 climbs - 1 sport 5.9, 1 mixed 5.10a, 1 trad (~5.7), and 1 TR (5.10b). I lead the all trad route - a line that I simply picked out and connected to other anchors. I also TRed the two 5.10s.

After Turtle, we headed to a newly developed cliff line along the Arkansas River and HWY 24 south of Leadville. One of the interns had been there before and directed us to some great climbs. First, she and I led a sweet 100' sport route (5.8/5.9) that culminated on a spire. It was vertical or more but had solid holds. It was a really fun climb with a good view to boot. Lowering from the anchor utilized every foot of a 60m rope, which was exciting. After that, we headed over to another sport route (5.7/5.8). It, too, was fun with similar ledges and horizontal cracks - a big difference from the crystalized conglomerate of Turtle. After that, though, I decided to lead a trad line. The only thing I knew was that it had an anchor up top, but it looked simple enough and straight forward, so I went for it. The moves were only about 5.6/5.7, but the protection was sparse and less-than-ideal. Rather than following a single crack, I moved side to side, mostly utilizing face holds and blocks. I placed pro where I could - a couple solid stoppers, a good #1, and an inadequate 0.75 (too shallow - more mental protection than anything). I made it up, though, and enjoyed the slightly sketchy and heady pro along with the solid holds.

NEW GEAR

The best part of the day was placing my own gear! I just spent some chollahbills on a rack - BD cams 0.3-3, neutrinos, slings, and DMM Offsets. It felt great to be self-reliant and using my own stuff! I am looking forward to getting much use out of this rack. BONUS: I found a big ol' BD #12 stopper at Turtle. It is the second piece I've found. The first was a large DMM Walnut, so I have the big sizes covered now. :)

Next Step

Well, I leave on a 14-day course soon, and am headed to Stanley, ID, after that to visit the lady friend (HOORAY). I am already planning climbs in the Sawtooths - Super Slab, Elephant's Perch (maybe...), Heyburn Peak, to name a few.

I am stoked about getting back to Southeast climbing too! This fall I hope to climb at Table Rock/Linville Gorge, NC, Red River Gorge, KY, Tennessee Wall, TN, amongst others. I plan on making climbing a priority - like every weekend. Hopefully, senior year and design projects won't be too much of a drag.

I am also lobbying for some big trips (hopefully ORC but possibly personal) to climbing destinations like Joshua Tree, CA, Yosemite Valley, CA, and Red Rocks, NV. Christmas break trip anyone?