Yesterday, I got my first day of climbing in since returning to Nashville. A friend and I headed out to King's Bluff in Clarksville. That cute little limestone cliffband next to the Cumberland River makes me happy. To make it better, God blessed us with incredible weather with clear skies and a mix of shady and sunny walls.
Our choice of routes: all 5.8s. The first was "Dogon Meets a Dancer." I led this route a few months ago - my first 5.8. However, yesterday, it gave me some problems. It is slightly more than vertical and requires some good smears. Neither one of those is a strength. Additionally, I started a push up and pull up routine the day before, so I was still sore from that. Regardless, I took what was probably my longest fall at the crux - 8-10ft (not huge). I went on the finish it though.
The 2nd 5.8 is called "Slip Slidin Away." I felt very smooth throughout until the top which ends right at a fairly featureless concave slope. After much evaluation and effort, I took the easy way and pulled on a quick draw to reach the anchors. Oh well. My friend then sent the route for his FIRST lead! It was great to be there for that.
We then stepped over to the left for our final 5.8 climb of the day. I can't recall the name, but it was another good one. The start was a little bouldery but it finished off well. I got pretty pumped at one point and sat a little bit.
Overall, I was a little disappointed in the troubles I had. I expected to be a lot stronger after a summer of solid climbing. I learned that different locations (and even days) yield different challenges. I have learned that ratings vary greatly from place to place. For instance, in Buena Vista, CO, I lead 5.9 and 5.10 (which climbed like 5.8 and 5.9). Of course, that lower angle climbing style on rough conglomerate rock was very different from the vertical, smooth and ledgy limestone of the Bluff. All in all, I had a great day climbing. I have plenty of time to get out and improve.
The best part of the day was taking a cool dip in the river apres climb. That was super refreshing. Being only ~50mins away, I plan on spending a lot of time at the Bluff this year.
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