Friday, the outdoor rec took a trip to Sunset Park on Lookout Mountain, TN. Two of my peers, our boss and I headed down there to prepare for our upcoming fall break trip to Table Rock/Linville Gorge, NC. The four of us will be leading four three-person parties during the four day trip. While the boss and one of the guys have extensive trad, leading, and multipitch experience, having climbed all over the world, two of us are fairly new to the multipitch trad world. The intention of the trip was to make sure we were all comfortable and on the same page concerning procedures and protocol.
We had a very good day. First, we headed North to two excellent 5.7s - Blonde Ambition and Jugular Vein. My buddy led BA and I took JV. It was a pretty cool climb with discontinuous, juggy cracks. I felt secure throughout and placed solid gear. I came to appreciate the Black Diamond C3s (small cams) on the climb because of all the thin horizontals. It was a good warmup climb for the mind and body before moving on.
Next, two of us headed over to a long 5.7 to practice rope management. My friend led about halfway up, built a gear anchor and then belayed me up. This way, we simulated climbing two pitches. It went smoothly - good practice.
Next, I led an awkward 5.6 named "One Ten." It is an easy climb full of ledges and rests. However, it follows this blocky gully-like corner. Ducking past roofs and side stepping between corners made it pretty awkward for me. Maybe I will appreciate it later on if I ever lead it again.
The highlight of the day was my last climb -- Bill's Route, 5.8. The route starts atop a boulder, follows an upward arching shallow crack up a short slab before hitting a small roof. I managed to throw a nut and another piece into the arching crack before the roof. Right under the roof, I got a small C3 cam. On the left side of the roof, there is a small chimney about 2ft wide. I wedged myself into the chimney - feet on the face, back against the flake. There I got a little stick. The seams were so small and I could figure out my next move. After some deliberation, I finally just went for it, completing a mostly friction move to stand up to a better hold. I ended up going about 15ft past that little cam before I got a better piece. I was really focusing on the climbing, trying to squeeze out all thoughts of falling or failure. They say, Climbing is your best protection, anyway. That was the hardest part. In fact, I don't even remember much else from the top section. It was a great climb though! I will definitely lead it again and again.
Day Two
After a solid training day, I decided to go back for more on Saturday. Another leader of moderates and I headed back to Sunset to cut our teeth on some more easy climbs. Saturday was even COLDER than Friday and we both quickly felt it. I led Slipstream, 5.6, first. The writing was on the wall from the beginning, when I had difficulty with one of the first moves. I was getting so frustrated, thinking, "What is wrong with me?" Result: I hung on a 0.75 cam - ON A 5.6! Proud moment for sure...at least the piece held. The rest of the route was pretty smooth. Given the wandering nature of it, I belayed my partner from the top. Looking out over Chattanooga was one of my favorite moments from the day. It always saddens me when I forget to look around after a climb. I cherish the opportunity to do so on multipitch. After all, I'm not climbing just to go up - I want to look around. My buddy then went to lead a 5.7, Jugular Vein, which I led Friday. He really wasn't feeling it but went ahead anyway. Result: it took a long time. All in all, we both climbed terribly! We were slow, not focused, and not smooth. Rough day. However, Sunset does offer some beautiful hiking! And great views.
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