The Convenience of Sport Climbing

Sport climbing is a style of rock climbing that relies on permanentanchors fixed to the rock, especially bolts, for protection, in contrast withtraditional climbing, in which the rock is typically devoid of fixed anchors, and climbers must place removable protection as they climb. Since the need to place protection is virtually eliminated, sport climbing places an emphasis on gymnastic ability, strength and endurance, as opposed to adventure, risk and self-sufficiency.

- Wikipedia

I spent this last Saturday welcoming spring to the walls of Foster Falls in Tracy City, TN, with my lovely lady friend. A cool, sunny day beckoned t-shirts and much climbing as the sun made its slow arch over the small gorge. As I spent the day clipping bolts and relying on their integrity to catch and support me, I realized a few things about sport climbing, climbing, and my own climbing. First, oblige my rambling criticisms in route to my lessons learned.

(1) Sport Climbing is uber convenient - maybe too convenient. It is very nice to be able to walk to a wall and cruise (or hang dog) up it with bolts and anchors already there. Sport climbing is faster and easier to manage (and potentially safer) than traditional climbing - awesome. However, I've noticed that the convenience brings about a much different climbing atmosphere. For one, people setup camp for hours at sport climbs. If you are willing to setup a hammock, then you are taking too long! Really! I have led a lot of climbing trips all over TN with big groups. When leading those trips, I believe it extra imperative to exemplify considerate climbing ethics - split into small groups, do not leave ropes hanging if people are not climbing, be quiet, and minimize impact. Here is a case I encountered this weekend. As I was cleaning a 5.9, a small university group setup to climb an adjacent climb. As they were scoping the climbs out, and my gf and I were enjoying our fresh lunch of bell peppers, cheese, crackers, and hummus (how cultured), a second university group came up. I realized it was time to leave that bottleneck and go elsewhere, so we went and climbed a 5.10. Close to an hour later, came upon the groups again. Moving past their setup was similar to buhwhacking as I stepped over backpacks and through hanging rope tangles. At that point in the trail, they had blocked all three separate paths. Unacceptable!

To make one more point - AVOID TOP ROPING DIRECTLY ON ANCHORS. I've done it once or twice when I knew my partner couldn't make it up, but I try to avoid it as much as possible. It only took one look at some rings worn halfway through for me to kick that habit. If your party cannot manage to make it up to clean the route (even by yarding on the other end of the rope), then you probably shouldn't be on that climb.

(2) Sport Climbing is GREAT for Working Routes (and for waiting). Not many people other than the Tommy Caldwells and Matt Segals of the world project trad routes. The additional mental and physical effort of placing one's own gear makes trad climbing not as conducive for working routes as sport climbing. At a place like Tennessee Wall or Sunset Park, climbing parties are constantly rotating through routes. While the leading process takes a little longer on a trad climb (compared to a comparable sport climb), most of the hang dogging and camping out is greatly limited. Trad climbers, in my mind, are the more mature and civilized of the climbing breed who are more aware of the environment and climbers around them than some young, gung ho sport climber. That said, I agree with Lynn Hill in Moving Over Stone II, who says that a well-rounded climber is one who can climb everything and defies the labels. It is for that reason that I respect climbers like Lynn Hill and Tommy Caldwell more than super-hard sport climbers. In fact, my favorite part of the Chris Sharma video, King Lines, was when he climbed the classic splitter, Moonlight Buttress. That climb has been free-soloed, but it is still more inspiring to me than his sport climbs.

That said, above is a photo of me hangdogging my way up Fish Eyed Fool, 5.10b. There is a lot to say for the convenience of sport climbing.

Now, what did I learn this weekend? (Positive things, I mean)

(1) Working routes can be fun! I've never projected a route. Almost all of my leads have been onsights. After last weekends onsight sending fest at the Obed, I've been thinking a lot about trying to find my Redpoint level (i.e. How hard I can climb after climbing a route several times). I took some baby steps in that direction this weekend.

Rolffed, a 5.9+ on Rehab Wall, has a tricky face to roof section. The plethora of chalk and two adjacent climbs do not help in finding beta either. My first attempt involved me trying a really shoulder intensive traverse move only to get shut down by the roof. After examining the holds, I found a much easier sequence and finished the route. After my partner (in climbing and love, wink wink) couldn't make it up, I pulled the rope and sent it. Redpoint practice, check.

Fish Eyed Fool, 5.10b, matches my hardest onsight grade but is substantially longer and more sustained. I would say the technical crux is about halfway, but the real crux is right at the top when my arms almost fell off. I got on it after climbing 6 pitches with the intention of getting a first glimpse for future redpoint efforts. Therefore, I hung and shook out at every bolt. The climbing was strenuous but fun all the way. The last bolt is roughly 6-7ft below the anchors which are positioned just above a small roof. My first attempt at that last section involved going straight up and then trying to traverse left to the anchors with good, blocky hands. In a nutshell, that probably isn't the best way, and resulted in my biggest lead fall yet, ~10ft. That was when my mind started wandering towards failure, so I tried to rein it back and focus.

I decided the direct route to the anchors (i.e. over the roof) was more promising. I worked some crimpy face moves up to a decent foot ledge with the roof about chest level. A positive, flakey sidepull held me to the wall with my right hand while my left wandered off left under the roof to find a decent hold. I was able to wrist hook around the left side of the wall to relieve some pressure on my right hand, but neither arm could hold my weight alone.

I spent several minutes, really, simply holding on pondering my next movement. The anchors were only 1-2ft above my hand and the bolt was a couple feet below me. What to do? As my muscles screamed for relief, I contemplated taking the whip in order to rest. Then I'd have to climb again, though! Instead, I mustered all my strength to rock up with that sidepull in order to slap the flat top above the anchors. Bam! One hand on, get the other there and adjust the feet. AH, my grip is waning. Hurry, get clip the draw and GRAB! I could barely hold the draw with my left hand as I finagled the rope into the carabiner with my right. I did not want to fall, though.

Now I know I can make every move on Fish Eyed Fool. The next step is to find the right sequences and rests to allow me to efficiently climb it. I look forward to working this inaugural project.

(2) Top cruxes make a climb so much more memorable.

Fish Eyed Fool was just one climb that allowed me to practice commitment. Similarly, Dutch Maiden, 5.10a, made me work for those chains! The top move (at least in my attempt) involved crimping, moving up to unsatisfying feet, and then slapping to a dish. After matching on that dish, I basically campused (read, pull up) to a left hand and pulled up some more. On my first attempt (of that section) I made the moves, but was feeling extraordinary resistance against my efforts. In an act of high gravity, my partner started pulling in slack in response to my crazed grunting, thereby pulling me off the wall. It didn't cost me an onsight or anything and actually allowed me more practice. I successfully made the move and clipped the chains on my second attempt.

Committing to moves is an area on which I am working and progressing. Power bouldering sessions are helping, but doing a boulder problem 50-70ft off the ground is still tough! But making that last move is SO fulfilling. My short memory holds onto it in triumph!