This last year brought stages 3 and 4, where I have set goals to lead 5.9 trad and 5.10 sport consistently. My trad leading has really come along to where I am consistently leading 5.8 and have pushed into 5.9 terrain several times. Given the right climb, I think I could even go 5.10. During the trad leading phase though, my strength has been a little neglected in favor of the mental side of things. Acquiring a gym membership has remedied that though. I am now climbing 3-5 times per week (about what I climbed each semester during phase 1 and 2), training in periodization, and getting out of my comfort zone. Committing to climbing was what I really needed to progress to another level. I feel myself getting stronger, more mentally focused, and the climbing results are showing it too!
Connecting the Dots
This weekend I got out 2 days for some awesome climbing. Friday was the hardest (in terms of grades) day of climbing I have ever had! A new buddy and I headed out to South Clear Creek, part of the Obed River drainage towards Knoxville. This was to be my first all sport day in a long while so I wanted to go big!
We warmed up on a 5.9! Before this day, I considered myself a 5.9/5.10 climber, and we started on a 5.9! Soon we hit another 5.9 and then a streak of three 5.10s. Most of my former 5.10 leads could be considered a little soft, but these were both tough and AWESOME! I onsight led all climbs cleanly first except for the first 5.9. Even better, I led my hardest route yet with Brother in Arms, 5.10b. Here is the list: Shadowhawk, 5.9; Superego, 5.9; It, 5.10a; Christine, 5.10; Brother in Arms, 5.10b.
Brother in Arms was the last climb of the day, and I couldn't have asked for a better finish! The climb is maybe a tad overhanging with lots of ~2 knuckle deep horizontals for good holds. I was feeling great, going along until the very top. Facing a steep, bare headwall between the last bolt and the rings, I stepped left to some more horizontals. I knew I had to get some high feet and power up to a horizontal slot several feet above me. The pump was seizing my forearms, my mind was wandering to the thought of the swinging fall, but I went for it. AND I STUCK IT! That feeling of "Wow, I'm still on!" came through me and I was stoked to clip the rings! That committing and powerful finishing move was just what I needed!
It was an incredibly motivating day as I prepare for a trip to Lumpy Ridge and RMNP, CO this May. A couple more great days along with some solid trad leads will prepare me for a safe and solid trip!
Good Company Makes a Great Day!
Friday was an awesome day of climbing - one of the best I've had. On top of that, I had great conversations with my friend throughout the day. I hope this is the beginning of a good friendship and climbing partnership.
To follow up that stellar day, I went to the always fun King's Bluff on Saturday with my gal, her brother and his girlfriend. We had a blast climbing some relatively easy stuff - 5.5, 5.4, 5.7, 5.8. I was on cloud nine from the day before and feeling a little sore, so I stuck to leading good climbs for them. I really enjoy climbing with the girlfriend! It's just fun! Even as I continue to get stronger and better, I know I can always have a blast at the crag with her.
So --- 2 awesome days as spring starts here in Tennessee. I'm excited to enjoy the sun and the flowers as spring progresses. This will be my first summer in Nashville, too, so I'm excited about that!
No comments:
Post a Comment