Staying a Beginner

Climbing, like life, is a continuous progression. Most of us start either in the gym or on a top-roping trip. I climbed for the first time at a freshman orientation program at Great Stone Door State Park in TN. It took about 18mos before I finally climbed again at the indoor wall. I was training for a trip to Rocky Mtn National Park and Lumpy Ridge. There I climbed multipitch for the first time, cleaned a route for a first time, and led a sport climb for the first time as well. Since that first lead on what I like to call "Gary's Nightmare Arete - 5.13R/X," I have gotten hooked on climbing.

We all want to progress at something, to become good, to get recognized. I am not a great climber. That first time in Estes I got shut down by 5.7 cracks learning how to jam. Even though I now lead 5.8 trad and 5.10 sport, I still have days where I feel like a girl scout. This week was an example of how within progress, there still lies occasional under performances.

Tennessee Wall

Sunday was a gorgeous day at the beautiful sandstone mecca of TWall. The last time I was there, I dragged my way up a 5.7 named Ribbon Cracks. This time was different because I was mentally prepared. I've led 5.9 in Joshua Tree. I've led 5.10 sport climbs. With that mindset of confidence (based on prior performance and realism), I was able to push through some tough and really satisfying climbs, including the mega-classic, "Golden Locks." I give credit to The Warrior's Way method of thinking.

Table Rock

I first climbed at Table Rock, NC, during the fall break of 2007. It was on Jim Dandy and The Daddy where I took my first leads in a multipitch setting. This trip I was the one introducing others to multipitch. I led the first 2 pitches of Cave Route up to lunch ledge. There, the group went over some rappelling practices and such. Then, we set off to the top. The 3rd pitch of Cave Route goes up to Lightning Ledge. The next pitch to the top has two variations of 5.7. I chose the one to the left, scrambled up some easy, lichen-covered rock, and then reached a small roof. Right there the climbing stopped. I pondered moves, assessed holds, worried about my marginal cam placement, and just couldn't commit to the next move. I down climbed, and my partner and I rapped to the ground. In just one day I was back in the dumps, wondering why I couldn't climb 5.7. Oh my...

Linville Gorge

One day and nearly a thousand feet of elevation change later, I redeemed myself on The Daddy. Given it is usually only 5.6, but I loved every foot of it. In addition to a couple easy pitches of 5.4/5.5, I took some 5.8 variations (one w/o knowing it). I decided that I was going to do it. I envisioned success, and when the going got tough, I overcame. The last pitch (linking 4 and 5) was awesome! Knowing it was nearly 200ft, I started trying to conserve gear (slings actually) over the initial easy terrain. Focusing on placing gear in good rest stances and when the rock afforded placement opportunities, I ran it out a little (or a lot)! The final dihedral to the finish was super sweet! It was really awesome to finish the trip on such a great note - standing atop the mummy buttress, overlooking the stunning gorge.

I may never be a "great" climber. I may never climb harder than 5.10, who knows. I will be okay with never climbing 5.12 as long as I remain progressing. Life is a journey, a continual learning experience, and I desire to be its student.

This morning I read a commencement speech from Steve Jobs. He ends his inspiring speech with these words from The Whole Earth Catalog: "Stay hungry. Stay foolish." I want to live an adventure. Tomorrow, I fly to Philadelphia to interview for a teaching fellowship. After 4 yrs of working for a BE in Chemical Engineering from Vanderbilt, I am hoping to enter the unknown again as a secondary math or science teacher. Even if I'm the best teacher in the world, I know my students will teach me even more than I ever could teach them.