A Day of Shredding - FINALLY

That is if you can possibly call my low-moderate grad lead climbing shredding. Anyway, I had a blast today. Four other interns and myself all went out for a full day worth of climbing - 7am to 7pm. Based on the recent rainy weather, we decided to head south to the desert landscape of Buena Vista's Turtle Rock rather than up to Independence Pass.

Down at Turtle, we setup 4 climbs - 1 sport 5.9, 1 mixed 5.10a, 1 trad (~5.7), and 1 TR (5.10b). I lead the all trad route - a line that I simply picked out and connected to other anchors. I also TRed the two 5.10s.

After Turtle, we headed to a newly developed cliff line along the Arkansas River and HWY 24 south of Leadville. One of the interns had been there before and directed us to some great climbs. First, she and I led a sweet 100' sport route (5.8/5.9) that culminated on a spire. It was vertical or more but had solid holds. It was a really fun climb with a good view to boot. Lowering from the anchor utilized every foot of a 60m rope, which was exciting. After that, we headed over to another sport route (5.7/5.8). It, too, was fun with similar ledges and horizontal cracks - a big difference from the crystalized conglomerate of Turtle. After that, though, I decided to lead a trad line. The only thing I knew was that it had an anchor up top, but it looked simple enough and straight forward, so I went for it. The moves were only about 5.6/5.7, but the protection was sparse and less-than-ideal. Rather than following a single crack, I moved side to side, mostly utilizing face holds and blocks. I placed pro where I could - a couple solid stoppers, a good #1, and an inadequate 0.75 (too shallow - more mental protection than anything). I made it up, though, and enjoyed the slightly sketchy and heady pro along with the solid holds.

NEW GEAR

The best part of the day was placing my own gear! I just spent some chollahbills on a rack - BD cams 0.3-3, neutrinos, slings, and DMM Offsets. It felt great to be self-reliant and using my own stuff! I am looking forward to getting much use out of this rack. BONUS: I found a big ol' BD #12 stopper at Turtle. It is the second piece I've found. The first was a large DMM Walnut, so I have the big sizes covered now. :)

Next Step

Well, I leave on a 14-day course soon, and am headed to Stanley, ID, after that to visit the lady friend (HOORAY). I am already planning climbs in the Sawtooths - Super Slab, Elephant's Perch (maybe...), Heyburn Peak, to name a few.

I am stoked about getting back to Southeast climbing too! This fall I hope to climb at Table Rock/Linville Gorge, NC, Red River Gorge, KY, Tennessee Wall, TN, amongst others. I plan on making climbing a priority - like every weekend. Hopefully, senior year and design projects won't be too much of a drag.

I am also lobbying for some big trips (hopefully ORC but possibly personal) to climbing destinations like Joshua Tree, CA, Yosemite Valley, CA, and Red Rocks, NV. Christmas break trip anyone?

Being the Young Guy

"That was the best course I've ever done." That was the concensus among my coinstructors for our Outward Bound Adult Renewal course. The ten adults ranging from 26 to 54, students to professionals, were incredible people. This course was easy, actually, because of their maturity and thoughtfulness. We simply facilitated discussion and they ran with it.

It was such a pleasure for me to see them work through some big life issues and big life decisions. In addition, seeing the growth and recognition of self-confidence, inner strength, and perseverence was moving. Let's just say many a tear were shed on this course.

It is great to work with such a powerfully inspiring organization. I consider myself fortunate.

More photos

While setting up camp, two men drove a whole flock of sheep past us. It was one of the strangest things I've ever witnessed.

Here is a glimpse at my month in the 5th wheel trailer. This is the bedroom, which is conveniently connected (no wall) to the bathroom. The luxurious and spacious kitchen, complete with a range requiring lighting with a handheld lighter, is shown below.

Pictures from my San Juan Adventures

This was my first Couloir, on Handies Peak. The summit, my first 14er, photo is below.

Here is just a taste of some of the gorgeous scenery in the San Juans. Everywhere you look, there are mountains.
This is the trail linking Red Cloud and Sunshine Peaks, two 14ers that Sandra and I hiked on the last day of our trip.

More San Juan Adventures

The 30-day mountaineering course I was supporting is now over. I waved goodbye to my 5th wheel trailer and am now back at base in Leadville. The last couple days were very busy with course end festivities. Before the course concluded though, I got another opportunity to get some field time. Another intern and I went out for three days in the north San Juans.

Day one, we hiked up Grizzly Gulch to Handies Peak. That afternoon we climbed my first snow couloir amidst rain and snow. The slope was pretty steep with a mixture of snow quality. I got a lot of practice kicking steps. It was great to sign my first 14er summit post. We camped that night in gorgeous American Basin looking out on peaks and lakes and the sunset.

After hiking all day on day two, part of which was off trail, we made it back over to the trailhead. On day three, she and I hiked both Redcloud and Sunshine Peaks, both 14ers, with packs. It was a strenuous uphill hike but neat. The peakbaggers were out in droves. Our descent was made via a steep scree slope, over which I jumped and skied and slid. It was my first scree experience and a lot of fun! The trip gave me another great view of the outdoors, the San Juans, and the OB experience.

Course End

The course ended with a big bbq, some community service, and a run. The personal challenge run turned out to be a full marathon over a high pass. I went ahead and ran it (with some uphill walking) despite my lack of running in the last month. It definitely felt like a marathon when I finished in 5hrs. I was pleased that I could still run the distance fairly comfortably though.

I am psyched about climbing right now. In fact, I will be assembling a rack this summer and really want to explore some stuff this fall including Tennessee Wall, Red River Gorge, Table Rock/Linville Gorge, and even out west to Joshua Tree, Red Rocks and Yosemite. Get it!

Vestal Basin

The last four days I was able to leave the 5th wheel behind and venture into the wilderness. On 6/30, an instructor, a student and I hiked the 11/12miles from Molas Lake into Vestal Basin in the Weiminuche Wilderness within the San Juan National Forest. The trip started with a 3,000ft descent to the Animas River and then another 3,000ft back up to Vestal. It was a tough, long day, but we made it in good time and met the rest of the 30-day crew.

The next day, the group decided to rest while some instructors scouted the Wham Ridge. Meanwhile, another instructor walked me through snow school. This was the first time I've self-arrested. We went through the whole progression from kicking snow steps to self-arresting to glissading. I self-arrested on my back, on my belly, headfirst, with a pack. It was pretty fun and good develop for me. Afternoon showers put a damper on any afternoon climbing plans. A few days ago I picked up some fishing line and flies from a shop. In the afternoon, I headed over to super cold Vestal Lake to try my hand. After only a few casts, bam!, a rainbow trout was on my line. I quickly took up the line with my hands and got the fish out of the water. THEN, the wish wriggled off the hook and back into the water. FAIL. I was super disappointed. I could taste that pan-seared trout already.

The plan was to climb Arrow and Wham the next two days. We awoke at 3:45am to cloudy skies and rain, so Wham was cancelled. A couple of hours later, though, the sky was stable enough for us to head up Arrow. Three instructors, myself, and the 7/8 students headed up. The ascent route was mostly talus and low angle slab with some lower 5th class moves. It took two fixed lines in techy places. This was my first summit! The peak offered beautiful views of peaks for miles. The rain and hail came quickly and made those slabs very sketchy. Those two fixes turned into seven fixes.

I was really happy with the climb. The instructors were great! They made an intentional effort to incorporate me into the climb. I helped spot students, manage ropes, clean fixes, and even helped build anchors. It gave me a good picture of being an OB instructor.

After a stormy night of thinking my tent was gonna blow away, I awoke, packed and headed back to civilization. Right before leaving, the mountain goats came into camp, which rounded out my wildlife sightings of pikas and ptarmigans. Seeing the San Juans was incredible and the development I got out of the trip was priceless. This course is so unique and has given me a very broad experience within OB. I love it! Now I prepare for the final resupply which requires going over a 4x4 pass. I'll definitely report back on that.