I hope to be this good as a teacher!

Good morning.......but I digress. on Bordom.net

New School Tradsters

This video is pretty funny! To each his own when it comes to climbing, as long as he/she is enjoying climbing and not being destructive or rude to others or the environment.

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/6106469/

The Convenience of Sport Climbing

Sport climbing is a style of rock climbing that relies on permanentanchors fixed to the rock, especially bolts, for protection, in contrast withtraditional climbing, in which the rock is typically devoid of fixed anchors, and climbers must place removable protection as they climb. Since the need to place protection is virtually eliminated, sport climbing places an emphasis on gymnastic ability, strength and endurance, as opposed to adventure, risk and self-sufficiency.

- Wikipedia

I spent this last Saturday welcoming spring to the walls of Foster Falls in Tracy City, TN, with my lovely lady friend. A cool, sunny day beckoned t-shirts and much climbing as the sun made its slow arch over the small gorge. As I spent the day clipping bolts and relying on their integrity to catch and support me, I realized a few things about sport climbing, climbing, and my own climbing. First, oblige my rambling criticisms in route to my lessons learned.

(1) Sport Climbing is uber convenient - maybe too convenient. It is very nice to be able to walk to a wall and cruise (or hang dog) up it with bolts and anchors already there. Sport climbing is faster and easier to manage (and potentially safer) than traditional climbing - awesome. However, I've noticed that the convenience brings about a much different climbing atmosphere. For one, people setup camp for hours at sport climbs. If you are willing to setup a hammock, then you are taking too long! Really! I have led a lot of climbing trips all over TN with big groups. When leading those trips, I believe it extra imperative to exemplify considerate climbing ethics - split into small groups, do not leave ropes hanging if people are not climbing, be quiet, and minimize impact. Here is a case I encountered this weekend. As I was cleaning a 5.9, a small university group setup to climb an adjacent climb. As they were scoping the climbs out, and my gf and I were enjoying our fresh lunch of bell peppers, cheese, crackers, and hummus (how cultured), a second university group came up. I realized it was time to leave that bottleneck and go elsewhere, so we went and climbed a 5.10. Close to an hour later, came upon the groups again. Moving past their setup was similar to buhwhacking as I stepped over backpacks and through hanging rope tangles. At that point in the trail, they had blocked all three separate paths. Unacceptable!

To make one more point - AVOID TOP ROPING DIRECTLY ON ANCHORS. I've done it once or twice when I knew my partner couldn't make it up, but I try to avoid it as much as possible. It only took one look at some rings worn halfway through for me to kick that habit. If your party cannot manage to make it up to clean the route (even by yarding on the other end of the rope), then you probably shouldn't be on that climb.

(2) Sport Climbing is GREAT for Working Routes (and for waiting). Not many people other than the Tommy Caldwells and Matt Segals of the world project trad routes. The additional mental and physical effort of placing one's own gear makes trad climbing not as conducive for working routes as sport climbing. At a place like Tennessee Wall or Sunset Park, climbing parties are constantly rotating through routes. While the leading process takes a little longer on a trad climb (compared to a comparable sport climb), most of the hang dogging and camping out is greatly limited. Trad climbers, in my mind, are the more mature and civilized of the climbing breed who are more aware of the environment and climbers around them than some young, gung ho sport climber. That said, I agree with Lynn Hill in Moving Over Stone II, who says that a well-rounded climber is one who can climb everything and defies the labels. It is for that reason that I respect climbers like Lynn Hill and Tommy Caldwell more than super-hard sport climbers. In fact, my favorite part of the Chris Sharma video, King Lines, was when he climbed the classic splitter, Moonlight Buttress. That climb has been free-soloed, but it is still more inspiring to me than his sport climbs.

That said, above is a photo of me hangdogging my way up Fish Eyed Fool, 5.10b. There is a lot to say for the convenience of sport climbing.

Now, what did I learn this weekend? (Positive things, I mean)

(1) Working routes can be fun! I've never projected a route. Almost all of my leads have been onsights. After last weekends onsight sending fest at the Obed, I've been thinking a lot about trying to find my Redpoint level (i.e. How hard I can climb after climbing a route several times). I took some baby steps in that direction this weekend.

Rolffed, a 5.9+ on Rehab Wall, has a tricky face to roof section. The plethora of chalk and two adjacent climbs do not help in finding beta either. My first attempt involved me trying a really shoulder intensive traverse move only to get shut down by the roof. After examining the holds, I found a much easier sequence and finished the route. After my partner (in climbing and love, wink wink) couldn't make it up, I pulled the rope and sent it. Redpoint practice, check.

Fish Eyed Fool, 5.10b, matches my hardest onsight grade but is substantially longer and more sustained. I would say the technical crux is about halfway, but the real crux is right at the top when my arms almost fell off. I got on it after climbing 6 pitches with the intention of getting a first glimpse for future redpoint efforts. Therefore, I hung and shook out at every bolt. The climbing was strenuous but fun all the way. The last bolt is roughly 6-7ft below the anchors which are positioned just above a small roof. My first attempt at that last section involved going straight up and then trying to traverse left to the anchors with good, blocky hands. In a nutshell, that probably isn't the best way, and resulted in my biggest lead fall yet, ~10ft. That was when my mind started wandering towards failure, so I tried to rein it back and focus.

I decided the direct route to the anchors (i.e. over the roof) was more promising. I worked some crimpy face moves up to a decent foot ledge with the roof about chest level. A positive, flakey sidepull held me to the wall with my right hand while my left wandered off left under the roof to find a decent hold. I was able to wrist hook around the left side of the wall to relieve some pressure on my right hand, but neither arm could hold my weight alone.

I spent several minutes, really, simply holding on pondering my next movement. The anchors were only 1-2ft above my hand and the bolt was a couple feet below me. What to do? As my muscles screamed for relief, I contemplated taking the whip in order to rest. Then I'd have to climb again, though! Instead, I mustered all my strength to rock up with that sidepull in order to slap the flat top above the anchors. Bam! One hand on, get the other there and adjust the feet. AH, my grip is waning. Hurry, get clip the draw and GRAB! I could barely hold the draw with my left hand as I finagled the rope into the carabiner with my right. I did not want to fall, though.

Now I know I can make every move on Fish Eyed Fool. The next step is to find the right sequences and rests to allow me to efficiently climb it. I look forward to working this inaugural project.

(2) Top cruxes make a climb so much more memorable.

Fish Eyed Fool was just one climb that allowed me to practice commitment. Similarly, Dutch Maiden, 5.10a, made me work for those chains! The top move (at least in my attempt) involved crimping, moving up to unsatisfying feet, and then slapping to a dish. After matching on that dish, I basically campused (read, pull up) to a left hand and pulled up some more. On my first attempt (of that section) I made the moves, but was feeling extraordinary resistance against my efforts. In an act of high gravity, my partner started pulling in slack in response to my crazed grunting, thereby pulling me off the wall. It didn't cost me an onsight or anything and actually allowed me more practice. I successfully made the move and clipped the chains on my second attempt.

Committing to moves is an area on which I am working and progressing. Power bouldering sessions are helping, but doing a boulder problem 50-70ft off the ground is still tough! But making that last move is SO fulfilling. My short memory holds onto it in triumph!

NEW STUFF!

Like Christmas! Today I got a new Black Diamond Quantum 65L pack and 00-2 C3 cams. WOOO! I love new stuff!

This is my first backpack. I did a lot of research and couldn't resist the snaz of the Quantum. It is light and streamlined and only gets lighter with several removable parts.

The C3s, one of my favorite pieces of climbing gear, round out my rack of Cams - 00 to #3.

I will certainly report how I like all this stuff. Look for some updates as I crag some the next couple of months and then shred hardcore in CO in May.

-Peace

Open Doors

Today, after waiting for just over two weeks, I received the good news from Nashville Teaching Fellows. I was accepted to the program to teach secondary math in Metro Nashville schools. Now all I have to do is pass the Praxis and get a job. Woo hoo! I will also hear from Knowles Science Teaching Fellowship on April 1st, which would partner with me for 5yrs while I obtain a masters and start teaching secondary science.

It's crazy to think about how this all started over a year ago. The week before spring break I realized I was not excited about a potential engineering consulting internship. Over the next few days I found Outward Bound, Student Conservation Association, and a camp in CA. Spending the next week in the Grand Canyon solidified my feelings and within two weeks I had landed a summer internship with OB.

That was one of the best decisions I have ever made. It has been a long, arduous road going through engineering while not enjoying it. I am so incredibly relieved to have these opportunities now to follow my heart. The key was that I refused to settle with the expectations of others or with the past. Rather I chose to be proactive, pursue my passions whole heartedly and to turn over my fears to God. He has blessed me abundantly. Throughout this last year, one bible passage has brought me much comfort and peace. That is Psalm 23.

The Lord is my shepherd I shall not want. He makes me to lie down in green pastures. He leads me beside still waters. He restores my soul. He leads me in the paths of righteousness for His namesake.

Though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I fear no evil, for you are with me. Your rod and your staff, they comfort me. You prepare a feast before me in the presence of my enemies. You anoint my head with oil. My cup runs over.

Surely goodness and mercy shall follow me all the days of my life, and I will dwell in the house of the Lord forever.

Good Vibrations

In a nut shell, my climbing experience has followed the following progression: (1) Intro - learning to climb, lead and manage sites, (2) Share - a lot of leading easy sport for organizations and friends, (3) Mind games - focusing on trad leading, runout climbs and managing my thoughts (with help from The Warrior's Way), (4) Strength Building - a lot of gym climbing, harder trad climbs, and pushing sport grades.

This last year brought stages 3 and 4, where I have set goals to lead 5.9 trad and 5.10 sport consistently. My trad leading has really come along to where I am consistently leading 5.8 and have pushed into 5.9 terrain several times. Given the right climb, I think I could even go 5.10. During the trad leading phase though, my strength has been a little neglected in favor of the mental side of things. Acquiring a gym membership has remedied that though. I am now climbing 3-5 times per week (about what I climbed each semester during phase 1 and 2), training in periodization, and getting out of my comfort zone. Committing to climbing was what I really needed to progress to another level. I feel myself getting stronger, more mentally focused, and the climbing results are showing it too!

Connecting the Dots

This weekend I got out 2 days for some awesome climbing. Friday was the hardest (in terms of grades) day of climbing I have ever had! A new buddy and I headed out to South Clear Creek, part of the Obed River drainage towards Knoxville. This was to be my first all sport day in a long while so I wanted to go big!

We warmed up on a 5.9! Before this day, I considered myself a 5.9/5.10 climber, and we started on a 5.9! Soon we hit another 5.9 and then a streak of three 5.10s. Most of my former 5.10 leads could be considered a little soft, but these were both tough and AWESOME! I onsight led all climbs cleanly first except for the first 5.9. Even better, I led my hardest route yet with Brother in Arms, 5.10b. Here is the list: Shadowhawk, 5.9; Superego, 5.9; It, 5.10a; Christine, 5.10; Brother in Arms, 5.10b.

Brother in Arms was the last climb of the day, and I couldn't have asked for a better finish! The climb is maybe a tad overhanging with lots of ~2 knuckle deep horizontals for good holds. I was feeling great, going along until the very top. Facing a steep, bare headwall between the last bolt and the rings, I stepped left to some more horizontals. I knew I had to get some high feet and power up to a horizontal slot several feet above me. The pump was seizing my forearms, my mind was wandering to the thought of the swinging fall, but I went for it. AND I STUCK IT! That feeling of "Wow, I'm still on!" came through me and I was stoked to clip the rings! That committing and powerful finishing move was just what I needed!

It was an incredibly motivating day as I prepare for a trip to Lumpy Ridge and RMNP, CO this May. A couple more great days along with some solid trad leads will prepare me for a safe and solid trip!

Good Company Makes a Great Day!

Friday was an awesome day of climbing - one of the best I've had. On top of that, I had great conversations with my friend throughout the day. I hope this is the beginning of a good friendship and climbing partnership.

To follow up that stellar day, I went to the always fun King's Bluff on Saturday with my gal, her brother and his girlfriend. We had a blast climbing some relatively easy stuff - 5.5, 5.4, 5.7, 5.8. I was on cloud nine from the day before and feeling a little sore, so I stuck to leading good climbs for them. I really enjoy climbing with the girlfriend! It's just fun! Even as I continue to get stronger and better, I know I can always have a blast at the crag with her.

So --- 2 awesome days as spring starts here in Tennessee. I'm excited to enjoy the sun and the flowers as spring progresses. This will be my first summer in Nashville, too, so I'm excited about that!

Staying a Beginner

Climbing, like life, is a continuous progression. Most of us start either in the gym or on a top-roping trip. I climbed for the first time at a freshman orientation program at Great Stone Door State Park in TN. It took about 18mos before I finally climbed again at the indoor wall. I was training for a trip to Rocky Mtn National Park and Lumpy Ridge. There I climbed multipitch for the first time, cleaned a route for a first time, and led a sport climb for the first time as well. Since that first lead on what I like to call "Gary's Nightmare Arete - 5.13R/X," I have gotten hooked on climbing.

We all want to progress at something, to become good, to get recognized. I am not a great climber. That first time in Estes I got shut down by 5.7 cracks learning how to jam. Even though I now lead 5.8 trad and 5.10 sport, I still have days where I feel like a girl scout. This week was an example of how within progress, there still lies occasional under performances.

Tennessee Wall

Sunday was a gorgeous day at the beautiful sandstone mecca of TWall. The last time I was there, I dragged my way up a 5.7 named Ribbon Cracks. This time was different because I was mentally prepared. I've led 5.9 in Joshua Tree. I've led 5.10 sport climbs. With that mindset of confidence (based on prior performance and realism), I was able to push through some tough and really satisfying climbs, including the mega-classic, "Golden Locks." I give credit to The Warrior's Way method of thinking.

Table Rock

I first climbed at Table Rock, NC, during the fall break of 2007. It was on Jim Dandy and The Daddy where I took my first leads in a multipitch setting. This trip I was the one introducing others to multipitch. I led the first 2 pitches of Cave Route up to lunch ledge. There, the group went over some rappelling practices and such. Then, we set off to the top. The 3rd pitch of Cave Route goes up to Lightning Ledge. The next pitch to the top has two variations of 5.7. I chose the one to the left, scrambled up some easy, lichen-covered rock, and then reached a small roof. Right there the climbing stopped. I pondered moves, assessed holds, worried about my marginal cam placement, and just couldn't commit to the next move. I down climbed, and my partner and I rapped to the ground. In just one day I was back in the dumps, wondering why I couldn't climb 5.7. Oh my...

Linville Gorge

One day and nearly a thousand feet of elevation change later, I redeemed myself on The Daddy. Given it is usually only 5.6, but I loved every foot of it. In addition to a couple easy pitches of 5.4/5.5, I took some 5.8 variations (one w/o knowing it). I decided that I was going to do it. I envisioned success, and when the going got tough, I overcame. The last pitch (linking 4 and 5) was awesome! Knowing it was nearly 200ft, I started trying to conserve gear (slings actually) over the initial easy terrain. Focusing on placing gear in good rest stances and when the rock afforded placement opportunities, I ran it out a little (or a lot)! The final dihedral to the finish was super sweet! It was really awesome to finish the trip on such a great note - standing atop the mummy buttress, overlooking the stunning gorge.

I may never be a "great" climber. I may never climb harder than 5.10, who knows. I will be okay with never climbing 5.12 as long as I remain progressing. Life is a journey, a continual learning experience, and I desire to be its student.

This morning I read a commencement speech from Steve Jobs. He ends his inspiring speech with these words from The Whole Earth Catalog: "Stay hungry. Stay foolish." I want to live an adventure. Tomorrow, I fly to Philadelphia to interview for a teaching fellowship. After 4 yrs of working for a BE in Chemical Engineering from Vanderbilt, I am hoping to enter the unknown again as a secondary math or science teacher. Even if I'm the best teacher in the world, I know my students will teach me even more than I ever could teach them.