I had the great privilege of leading a weeklong Outdoor Rec backpacking through the Grand Canyon 2/28-3/1. It turned out to be one of the best experiences I've ever had in the outdoors.
Photos are available at MyShutterfly site and my Picasa site in the links.
Pretrip
Preparation began way back in the fall when we submitted an itinerary to the GCNP personnel. Our group of 17 was split up into two groups of 11 and 6. A fellow junior and I led the 11 person group consisting of 7 students and 4 alumni/friends. Our group secured a permit with the following itinerary: Day 1-Down Grandview Trail to Cottonwood Creek, Day 2-Cottonwood to Grapevine Canyon, Day 3- Grapevine to Lonetree Canyon, Day 4- Lonetree to the tip off and down to Bright Angel Campground, Day 5- Rest day/Day hike, Day 6- Bright Angel to Indian Garden, Day 7- Up and out Bright Angel. In total, we hiked ~50miles over the seven days.
Preparation included a total of 5 pretrip meetings to discuss gear, logistics, and more. My coleader and I had to plan a menu for the week, estimate amounts, and purchase a total of ~$500 worth of food! The group met the week prior to the trip to check gear and split up food and group gear. Our packs weighed between 40 and 50lbs at the start.
We flew out to Phoenix that Saturday and spent the night in Flagstaff. Early the following morning, we drove to the Canyon and headed downward.
Conditions - weather, trails and camping
We were incredibly fortunate to have wonderful weather during the trip. Going down, there was some ice on Grandview, so we donned our instep crampons. I was hiking in pants and a short sleeve t-shirt given temps in the fifties. That steep, switchbacked trail offers stunning views of horseshoe mesa and beautiful orange canyon as far as you can see. The Tonto Trail on which we spent 3 days, is a flatter trail winding in and out of side canyons on the plateau above the river. The views of the river are incredible, and the rather exposed sections of trail can be thrilling (and nerveracking for acrophobes).
While the many steep trails carved into canyon walls offer stunning vistas, the Tonto reveals the true desert environment of the canyon. For miles, the only vegetation one encounters is scrub bushes and cacti. Scratchy brush and sharp spikes adorn the trail as you walk across a seemingly barren landscape of rocks and sand. The Tonto offers practically no shade and only occasional water. Even in the cooler weather, the sun beat down on us and drained us of both water and energy.
In contrast to the dry plateau, the river offers a rather lush environment with trees, deer, flowers, and lots of shady areas. Down at Bright Angel Campground & Phantom Ranch, the group took in what this touristy area offers. We stopped by the Cantina to enjoy some Lemonade and to send postcards by mule. We also enjoyed a presentation on bats by a ranger. Bright Angel/Phantom Ranch is fun and offers comfortable conditions, but I much preferred the seclusion and peace of the backcountry.
On our day off, the group decided to head up the N Kaibab Trail to Ribbon Falls. It is a one way trip of about 6miles and 1300 ft. Looking to loosen the legs some, I chose to run to the falls and wait for the group. When they arrived, we enjoyed a nice packed lunch, and took pictures by the humble falls. It was a nice 4hr round trip (3hrs for me).
Another fun day was when we hiked from BA to Indian Gardens. After setting up camp, we hiked the 1.5mi out to Plateau Point. There, we just lounged around, shot some photos and read. The ranger has a modest library set up at camp, and we borrowed a couple books - "Death in the Canyon" and "It Happened in the Canyon." That day was very peaceful and relaxing.
The Group
This was a fantastic group of individuals. They were helpful, eager to be involved and to learn. There was very little complaining and discontent, and everyone was fit enough for the physical demands. The mixture of 6 undergrads, 1 PhD candidate, and 4 young professionals made for a very fun dynamic. We students were all sad to see our older friends depart early to make a flight. One of my favorite parts of backpacking is the group dinner, and we had some great dinners. In order, we enjoyed spaghetti, pita pizza (my favorite), mac 'n' cheese, potatoes and soup, quesadillas, and Mexican rice and beans. No question, the group made the trip. I could and would enjoy a GC solo hike, but a tough group would have really put a damper on this trip. We were lucky.
What I Learned About Leading
(1) Consult the group before making itinerary changes. Before the trip, I convinced the other coordinator that we should extend our first day by crossing the top of Horseshoe Mesa and coming down the N side back to Cottonwood Creek. She agreed and we lead the group on our new route. Unfortunately, once we were well across the Mesa a mile or so, we were uncertain of our route down and several people were getting nervous about the heights involved. In a mix of group mutiny and democracy, we decided to back track and descend the original route. The detour added about 2mi to our first day and a considerable amount of time.
(2) Keep the group together. After the Mesa excursion, we were in a hurry to be the setting sun and find our camp. In my haste, I pushed ahead followed by two others. We find our campsite but the group was all split up. I then had to find and direct people to our camp as they came along. On top of that, one person lost a water bottle and went back to retrieve it. The result was a tired and demoralized group. We had a good dinner, and vowed to stick together for the remainder of the trip.
(3) Make sure group has a mutual goal/purpose with stated commitments to each other. In a trip of this nature, it is vital for every member to be committed to the well-being of the group. A lack of motivation, concern for others, or contribution in one individual can spoil the moods and experiences of others. We were fortunate to not have any major problems. However, we could have done a better job making sure everyone was on the same page before hand.
Personal Experience
First, I wanted this to be an opportunity for me to return to center, refocus, and relax. I was not hoping for a very spiritual trip and I was not disappointed. The GC is amazing! Even after a week, I cannot fully appreciate the grandeur and majesty of it. I wish I could watch time-lapse footage of it forming - all that time and energy. Nature is a very important part of my relationship with God. The canyon is a testament to His power, creativity, and beauty. I could not help but stand amazed before it and recognize Him for giving me the opportunity to enjoy it. A friend gave me a small journal to take along. Writing every day brought great fulfillment and the chance to reflect. It was great. I know I will enjoy looking back on it many years from now.
Finally, the trip granted me some clarity in my career desires. I have invested 3 years in Chemical Engineering, a very tough major. Unfortunately, I have known since sophomore year that ChE is not what I want to do, but I have never been willing to make the switch (largely because of uncertainty of alternatives). The week before the trip it occurred to me that I would much rather spend my time outside in the environment than in an office. The outdoors is where my heart is. I am happy and excited and close to God when outside. Moreover, I thoroughly enjoy teaching and leading. Being in the canyon with this group and having the ability to experience it all not only for myself but with others confirmed by thoughts. Thus, I applied to some outdoor internships the first week back, including internship with Outward Bound, Student Conservation Association, and a Christian camp called Mount Hermon. I am really excited about the possibilities and hope one of them works out.
