Saturday, February 27, 2010

We LOVE Adventure

We're all familiar with e-Harmony and its arbitrary number of compatibility for matching singles. I didn't need eHarmony or anything else to know that my girlfriend and I were compatible when we started getting to know each other during the fall of 2009. We discussed life, religion, politics, our fears, and our desires while training for our first marathon. Since then we have run 2 marathons and a 50k together, side by side. If you want to test the compatibility of a relationship, run 31 miles together.

Alternatively, do some multipitch climbing together - tied into the same rope, relying on the other. Last August, I visited my gal in the Sawtooth Mountains of Idaho. There, we naively lugged my 10.3mm x 70m rope into the back country to climb on Super Slab (across the valley from notorious Elephant's Perch, which was too committing and too hard for us). True to it's name, the Super Slab is a large slab - lower angle at the bottom with some cracks up top. So . . . we just scurried (and by scurrying I mean uncomfortably free soloing up ~5.7 unprotected slab). The second pitch (or first roped pitch) was awkward, and like the party before us, we bailed (off unsettling slings and pitons, at that). In two pitches, we got to see how each of us responds to stress.

All of this is to say how important ADVENTURE is to our relationship. It is awesome to be with someone who values it as much as I do both in the outdoors and life (we are both going to teach after graduating with economics and engineering degrees).

This weekend, we explored some new climbing and hiking in the Chattanooga area. Rather than going to the classic areas of Tennessee Wall or Sunset Park, she and I decided to go to the roadside local crag called LEDA. It was all we could have asked for too - convenient, sport, trad, and lots of easy routes. I led five routes, four of which she followed - 4, 5.7 sport climbs and 1 trad route. The last sport climb, "Speedway Boogie" and the trad line were great! The bottom of the 7 was a sweet finger crack leading to some fun face climbing. The 8 had a steep, bouldery start and then followed a cool hang crack to some ledges above. It was exactly the confidence booster I needed coming off of last week's disappointing day at TWall. I felt great about my gear! My cam choices and placements were quick and correct. I also experimented with keeping my slings on my harness rather than slung on the shoulder. It was a lightbulb going off in my head, making all the clips fast and easy rather than fumbling with slings and extra biners.

After a solid day of climbing, we headed to the Great Stone Door of the South Cumberland State Park to camp and hike. Dinner, mm mm mmmm, was delicious! The gf prepared marinated chicken and steak for fajitas - YEAH! We had some chips, Trader Joe's pineapple salsa, and guac to go with it. Breakfast was just as satisfying with some egg and cheese sandwiches.

Seeing the Stone Door was quite nostalgic for me. I had not been back since Aug of 2006, where my climbing (and outdoor adventure) began with WilSkills orientation program. It was pretty cool to reminisce of those first frustrating climbing moves. We did an 7 or 8 mile loop around the park among the barren trees of the park. Ever since this summer's stay in CO, I cannot help but see the similarities between the east and the west. Talus, mountains, river gorges all look very similar except for rock types and vegetation. The glory of God's creation is really pretty incredible! I am ever-grateful for the opportunity to share the joy and adventure of it with a partner.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Where Your Head At?

Every step off the ground and onto a rock face requires a degree of mental strength and awareness. A climber, especially while leading, must identify, mitigate, and justify the risks he or she will face. It was that preparation that I lacked this past weekend during my first trip to the famous Tennessee Wall. As a result, I felt like a scared girl scout greeted at the door by a grumpy, overweight, hairy man who has no desire to buy her cookies. It was a tough day . . .

Being the first nice day in months, every trad climber in the tristate area headed to TWall on Saturday. The Vandy Outdoor Rec also benefited from the glorious weather, which was one of the few highlights of the day for me. Given the busy nature of the area, my group decided to head climbers left to the underutilized areas of TWall. As one might expect, the trail was rougher and the climbs dirtier.

The first climb I got on was Ribbon Cracks, 5.7. The discontinuous crack systems scaled a vertical wall of sandstone of about 50ft. Sparing you the details, It was the longest lead I have ever had. The moves were not hard, exposed, or hairy. My mind was a frail as J-e-l-l-o, however. One day later, my muscles are sore from all the hanging and over gripping. Every move seemed intimidating as my mind wandered to falling, wishing, and general unpleasantness. After several hangs on gear and one final move on the upper slab, I eventually made it to the rings. I do not EVER recall being so happy to clip the chains!

Hindsight is still less than 20/20. My best analysis is that I simply did not prepare myself mentally before the climb. Why? I don't know! It should be apparent to me by now that I NEED several minutes to visually scout out the route holds and placements, relax and center my mind and body - even if it is just 5.7. I also know that progressing in difficulty is key to my success on any given day. I should start SUPER easy and then move on with confidence. That first route can make or break a day for me right now, unfortunately.

Where to From Here?
Well, I must continue working on my lead head. I must take the time to focus completely before a climb and continue to work through the climb with confidence and commitment.

To be efficient and calm on trad climbs, I must become more comfortable with my gear. I spend far too much time and energy choosing and placing gear rather than climbing. With every second that passes while I place a piece, my muscles tire and my mind wanders. My remedy is to practice placing pieces with speed and precision ON THE GROUND. I want to be able to efficiently place gear on the first try, which requires intimate familiarity with my gear, including which sizes correspond to my fingers and hands.

I must learn from the day and move on rather than getting down about it. Outward Bound founder Kurt Hahn said that there is no learning without reflection. Too much reflection can put a mind in a bad place, though, so I'm going to move on. See you soon, T-Wall!