Newbs are Fun

Thursday, my girlfriend and I went to King's Bluff climbing area for the third time. We also have a ball when we're there. This time was extra fun because we brought her brother for his first time. We had a great time! They both climbed really well, in fact. We did four climbs from - 5.4, 5.7, 5.8, 5.8. They both climbed them all after I led them. The girlfriend cleaned all the routes too. That makes it so much faster and easier for me.

Here are some pics from the day.

Monkey Killing and LAG-ing

In a shirt recap of the last month, two big events were the Flying Monkey Marathon and a trip to King's Bluff.

- The Monk: The gal and I completed Monkey #2 together in a little of 4hrs. She ran a PR for the distance, and can definitely go a lot faster if she wants. As always, it was an AWESOME event! Thanks a ton to the volunteers and the RD, Trent!

- The Bluff: Vandy ORC and I headed to Clarksville to help maintain the beloved bluff. After widening and leveling a good section of trail, we got a little bit of climbing in. It was very fulfilling to help maintain an area we use a lot and has helped a lot of folks get started. I was also psyched to lead L.A.G.,5.9, clean on the first try. I got shutdown on the route way back in April or May. This was the first time back on the route, and it felt great to see real progress in my ability.

I'm hoping to get some good days in this weekend before Christmas and JOSHUA TREE in January! YEAH!

Introduction to the RED

Last weekend, I had the pleasure of enjoying the Red River Gorge for the first time! My girlfriend, two friends, and I made the ~5hr journey Friday night. After some decent road time, we rolled into Miguel's near full-capacity parking lot, unpacked and set up camp in the goat pasture. Then we headed to the heated tiki lounge to discuss the next day's itinerary. Having done my research, I suggested Lady Slipper. It was an easy sell and we all called it a night.

Lady Slipper was a great destination for us, full of moderate climbs. In one day, I led a 4-star 5.6 sport route, two 5.7 gear routes and a 5.8 gear route. The climbing was great! I learned some things on those gear routes. For one, I need to relax. The added stress of climbing on gear makes me significantly more tense and tunnel-visioned. Easy moves become hard and I get pumped way too soon. The Rock Warriors Way talked a lot about ways to calm the mind - focus on breathing, soft focus, positive speech, asking questions, etc. I want to actively incorporate those techniques.

On day two, we headed to the ever popular Muir Valley. We first headed back to the stadium where we found some awesome stuff. I led a 5.7 route that was pretty fun. I intentionally focused on placing lots of passive pro and felt much more solid doing so by the end. The day before I got some constructive criticism from a friend about setting my stoppers better. After the 5.7, I top-roped a sweet 5.9 that transitioned from a juggy overhanging start to a hand crack to a slab. It was full value for sure! One friend led a gnarly route called No Bones About It, but I didn't climb it.

Rather, the gf and I headed over to Great Wall to find some easier stuff. It was pretty full and we had to wait to get on some 6's and 7's. In the meantime, I ambitiously onsighted my first 5.10 in the southeast. Some might call it soft with lots of jugs and plates. I climbed it and am proud of it, regardless! Then, she and I ate lunch before jumping on the 5.7. Also at Great Wall, I top-roped a 5.10c, 5.10 crack, and led another 5.6 sport route. I was really happy to get the mix of tough TRs and easy leads for me. Also, I really wanted to find some easier climbing for my girlfriend who is still learning.

All in all, the weekend was a great success. I had a blast camping with friends and climbing. Miguel's is super cool though very strange. We got our time and money worth at the Red, climbing ~12 pitches in total. Each day we woke with the sun and hiked back at sunset. I hoped to spend many more days exploring the Gorge.

Does This Make Me a Sport Climber?

Horse Canyon Ranch - the place where good ol' boy climbers, vacationing dude ranchers, hippy disc golfers, and the world's elite boulderers & climbers come together. Vandy Outdoor Rec ended up there when the weather for our fall break trip to Table Rock, NC, started looking nasty. We headed west instead!

The nearly 9.5 hr drive to the ranch consisted of little sleep (for me) and a lot of rain. Hours of downpours made me question the quality and quantity of climbing we would get for our trip which lasted Thurs - Sunday. After we had set up camp Thursday, the crew headed to the rock to scout out routes and the level of wetness. Surprisingly, the rock was drying well. With high hopes for dry weather, we settled in at camp.

The Camping

Imagine an EZ-Up tent filled with ten people sitting on coolers and lawn chairs, two tables, a couple propane stoves, a bouldering pad, and bins of food. That setup, alone, made for a enjoyable weekend, especially after sundown when the temps dropped. For the first dinner, I volunteered to make one of my favorite meals - mama's beef stroganoff recipe. Even on Coleman stoves with limited ingredients, the meal was satisfying! We had no problems with food - gorging on mexican burritos, thai peanut rice, sandwiches, cookies, mini candy bars, and other snacks. I slept well most nights too. After camping sp many nights this summer, I have gotten used to the feel and have grown to love the comfort my Kelty down bag affords. I even brought a foam pad in addition to my inflatable pad to enhance the comfort. Oh yeah!

A quick aside: on one midnight journey to relieve myself, I was greeted by an incredible clear sky. The innumerable stars shown like pin holes in a card board box. Every time I witness the beauty of a clear, starry sky, I am amazed. Only the cold on my pantless legs bids me inside away from the grandeur. That is one of the most obvious ways in which I see God's work.

The Climbing

All together, I climbed sixteen pitches. I led eleven of those, all but two cleanly. Four of those leads were on aretes, my favorite type of climb. I top-roped two hand/fist jams at 5.9+, tore up my hands and realized I need a lot of practice. I also pushed myself on two 5.11s. One ended on a steep headwall. I made it through the entire climb (pretty straightforward and 5.8/5.9 before reaching the headwall. Then, I just kept climbing, not succumbing to the thought that it was too hard. The second climb was a made up of a very strenuous thin crack section on the bottom and a very balancy, thin section up top. I struggled big time down low but excelled up top. Those were both confidence building. I led my first 5.10 climb, as well. I should have, and probably could have later, led it clean but had to hang at one section when I couldn't manage the right sequence. I found my way, however, and finished strong.

I was VERY impressed with the Ranch. The quality of the rock and routes was very good AND super convenient. I will definitely go back sometime! I send a big thanks out to all the participants and my fellow coordinators in making this a great trip!!

Below is a list of the climbs I did: S=sport, T=trad, TR=toprope, L=lead

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch The Man in Black 5.7 S L The Bulb 5.8 S L Groovy 5.8 S L Brand New 5.8 S L Hickadelic Jazzgrass 5.8 S L Molt 5.8+ S L Gracie's Eight 5.8+ S L Strongman 5.9+ S L Leonid 5.9+ S L Orange Crush* 5.9+ S L Private Property* 5.10a S L Deft Jam 5.9+ T TR WMA 5.9+ T TR Sons of the Soil 5.10a S TR Milquetoast 5.11a S TR The Mud, The Blood, & The Beer 5.11b T TR

TRAD is RAD

What is harder - climbing through a difficult section or keeping your mind right through that section? I am inclined to go with the latter. This combination of mental and physical challenge is what makes trad climbing so fulfilling. Exposure and committing moves are no cake walk even when a bolt is next to your face. However, make that bolt a size 4 stopper or a 00 c3 cam and place it about 15 feet below you. The moves are the same. The additional challenge is keeping the head straight. This is trad climbing, and it is my new developing passion.

Friday, the outdoor rec took a trip to Sunset Park on Lookout Mountain, TN. Two of my peers, our boss and I headed down there to prepare for our upcoming fall break trip to Table Rock/Linville Gorge, NC. The four of us will be leading four three-person parties during the four day trip. While the boss and one of the guys have extensive trad, leading, and multipitch experience, having climbed all over the world, two of us are fairly new to the multipitch trad world. The intention of the trip was to make sure we were all comfortable and on the same page concerning procedures and protocol.

We had a very good day. First, we headed North to two excellent 5.7s - Blonde Ambition and Jugular Vein. My buddy led BA and I took JV. It was a pretty cool climb with discontinuous, juggy cracks. I felt secure throughout and placed solid gear. I came to appreciate the Black Diamond C3s (small cams) on the climb because of all the thin horizontals. It was a good warmup climb for the mind and body before moving on.

Next, two of us headed over to a long 5.7 to practice rope management. My friend led about halfway up, built a gear anchor and then belayed me up. This way, we simulated climbing two pitches. It went smoothly - good practice.

Next, I led an awkward 5.6 named "One Ten." It is an easy climb full of ledges and rests. However, it follows this blocky gully-like corner. Ducking past roofs and side stepping between corners made it pretty awkward for me. Maybe I will appreciate it later on if I ever lead it again.

The highlight of the day was my last climb -- Bill's Route, 5.8. The route starts atop a boulder, follows an upward arching shallow crack up a short slab before hitting a small roof. I managed to throw a nut and another piece into the arching crack before the roof. Right under the roof, I got a small C3 cam. On the left side of the roof, there is a small chimney about 2ft wide. I wedged myself into the chimney - feet on the face, back against the flake. There I got a little stick. The seams were so small and I could figure out my next move. After some deliberation, I finally just went for it, completing a mostly friction move to stand up to a better hold. I ended up going about 15ft past that little cam before I got a better piece. I was really focusing on the climbing, trying to squeeze out all thoughts of falling or failure. They say, Climbing is your best protection, anyway. That was the hardest part. In fact, I don't even remember much else from the top section. It was a great climb though! I will definitely lead it again and again.

Day Two

After a solid training day, I decided to go back for more on Saturday. Another leader of moderates and I headed back to Sunset to cut our teeth on some more easy climbs. Saturday was even COLDER than Friday and we both quickly felt it. I led Slipstream, 5.6, first. The writing was on the wall from the beginning, when I had difficulty with one of the first moves. I was getting so frustrated, thinking, "What is wrong with me?" Result: I hung on a 0.75 cam - ON A 5.6! Proud moment for sure...at least the piece held. The rest of the route was pretty smooth. Given the wandering nature of it, I belayed my partner from the top. Looking out over Chattanooga was one of my favorite moments from the day. It always saddens me when I forget to look around after a climb. I cherish the opportunity to do so on multipitch. After all, I'm not climbing just to go up - I want to look around. My buddy then went to lead a 5.7, Jugular Vein, which I led Friday. He really wasn't feeling it but went ahead anyway. Result: it took a long time. All in all, we both climbed terribly! We were slow, not focused, and not smooth. Rough day. However, Sunset does offer some beautiful hiking! And great views.

The Pump - it feels so good

What a day of climbing! Super fun. I couldn't asked for better.

Today, my gf, two friends and I hit up Foster Falls in Tracy City, TN. We had been watching the weather all week. It finally broke this morning allowing us to get a solid day of climbing, after we cooked up some deluxe scrambled eggs of course!

One friend is super solid (leading 5.11s), I'm pretty moderate (5.8/5.9 leads) and the other two are beginners. We first hit up The Rocket Slab to warm up. The damp 5.5, Afterburner, barely did the job. Next, we headed to the Dihedrals, only to be greeted by a posse of school children. Okay, off to Jimmywood. Whoa - I'd never been and it's great!

I first led the 5.8, Jacob's Ladder. It was fun and a much better warm up to get the lead head going. Next, I stepped over to Pocket Pool, 5.9, to get serious. What an incredible route! It was possibly one of the best I've ever done - full of a variety of moves and holds. It takes an indirect route, including a great little traverse, and seemed perfectly spaced for me. I loved it, and, besides a slip down low, sent it cleanly.

After that, we headed back to two routes, while the little tykes were camping out at the dihedrals still (It's good to see kids outside though). The first route is a prominent fist-size crack which ascends through some different strata of rock before splitting into a V. I have climbed it several times on TR. This time I led it on gear! It was about 5.8, took good gear, and was pretty short and very secure. Another opportunity to practice with the gear = always good. Leading climbs which I top-roped early on in my climbing career is extra rewarding.

The highlight of the day had to be my go on Bear Mountain Picnic - 5.8+ (HA! climbs like a 5.10). This long, arete ascends beautifully above the creek and is full of sustained, steep climbing on horizontal ledges. I might have chosen the more direct, and, thereby, more difficult route. Man, was it a bear and a blast! I have never made so many sounds climbing before. It was perfect for me right now though - offering me long, steep climbing (not my forte) with exposure. I couldn't muster enough strength to pull the last section on the first go, but blasted through it after a short hang. Routes like Pocket Pool and Bear Mountain Picnic bring together physically demanding climbing with mentally stimulating moves and spacing of protection.

This was definitely one of the best climbing days I've had! I think I have a newfound appreciation for Foster Falls! This week should be really awesome as well! Friday, I will be doing a "training day," practicing multipitch skills before going to Linville Gorge the following Thursday - Sunday. I then hope to hit up Sunset Park in Chattanooga to further increase my trad leading skills. EXCITING!

What have I gotten myself into?

I started asking myself that question as the girlfriend, two friends, and I drove from Nashville to Chattanooga. We were headed for the Rock/Creek Stump Jump 50k. All four of them were 50k first-timers and I was a Stump Jump first-timer.

I signed up for the race back in August. The gf had been itching to do a 50k ever since supporting me in my first back in January. Despite not running much this summer, I figured August and September gave me adequate time to get in some mileage. Alas, the motivation never came. Since running an improv marathon on the 4WD roads of the San Juans back in June, I have run two 12-milers and 2-3 shorter runs. That is it.

I joked on the car ride down, saying, "Running 50ks is like riding bikes, right? Muscle memory". While that sounds ridiculous, it is not much of an exaggeration of my thinking up to the race. After all, I've run a 50k and 3 marathons. Therefore, I will be mentally prepared. Finishing is not a question. I'll just be out there longer. We finished, yes! It was the most physically difficult things I've ever done, though.

Here is a short synopsis of the event:

--The crew and I arrived in Chatty around 6:45pm. Dinner started at 6pm, so we scrounged all the left-overs we could manage and chatted with a friend who was also to run. Then, we all headed down to hear "Ultramarathon Man," Dean Karnazes speak. I'm sorry to say that I was not too motivated by him, and we all left early. Are his accomplishments incredible? Yes. Was I inspired the first time I heard them? Yes. It's just that a room full of long-distance athletes already know about long-distance running, so I guess we're a tougher audience than average Americans.

--The gf and I were going to camp Friday night. The plan was to go to a state forest campsite near the race start. We weren't sure how to get to that campsite though, so we pitched out tent next to the starting area parking lot. Besides the post-football game high schoolers peeling out and the early morning setup crew, it wasn't that bad of a location. At least, we were only yards from the start area.

--The crew all started together. Slowly we managed to break up as one bolted ahead not long into the race, another dropped back midway and a third left me and the gf towards the end. It was nice to have the company. During the middle of the race, I followed a group at an intersection, which turned out to mislead us on a bonus excursion. No problem - add another k to the distance. Also midway through, I got popped with shot of fire in my thigh, when a yellow jacket caught me. Good thing I took my pre-race Epipen shot to get the heart going! ;)

--I knew I had made a tough decision less than halfway through the race. I was already feeling more tired than I should. In fact, most of the race, I felt like the gf was pacing me along. She was possibly even less prepared than I, running a max run of 8 miles in the last 6 months! Those last 10 miles were a slog for sure. I wanted to walk so bad, but walking hurt more! Running was sometimes just as slow as walking and gave me a stiffening sensation in my chest. OH! Why hadn't I trained? No amount of Nuun, Heed, soda, chocolate, pretzels, or gels could make me feel good through those miles. I resorted to straight water, so I could pour it on my face and body.

--Finally, after a very long 7hrs, she and I came down the paved parking lot across the finish line. All I wanted to do was lie down. Someone please give me an ice bath!! I am pretty sure I could have slept mid-race and definitely immediate post-race. The pain and discomfort is subsiding slowly. I still feel like a decrepit old man one day later. Unlike past races, this one caused my joints, tendons, and ligaments to hurt more than my muscles. I didn't have any cramping problems, but my IT band has gone from rubber band to steel cord.

All in all, I'm glad I went through with the race. I am privileged to be able to enjoy the outdoors in this way. The weather was gorgeous, revealing picturesque views of the Tennessee River Gorge. Best of all, I was able to support my friend through her first 50k, much like the way she supported me through mine.

Thanks to R/C and the volunteers for another quality day and to Vandy ORC for some trail maintenance.

Pullin' Plastic

I love climbing outside. I would never climb inside if I had easy access to local crags. Alas, I must resort to the plastic to stay in shape. Much of my recent climbing has been at Vandy wall at the rec center. I have also set two routes - both in the 5.9 range. I usually just climb all the easy to moderates at the wall and then try a tough one. It yields a sufficient burn.

Today, though, I made the short trek to ClimbNashville since the weather was supposed to be rainy. A friend and I were there for ~3hrs with very little rest. Together, we probably did 20 or more routes.

I had fun! The gym is probably good for me, because it requires different climbing than what I'm used to. Most routes are vertical or slightly overhanging. That is NOT my forte. I don't have great grip strength, power, or endurance right now. Regardless, I felt pretty good today. We started with some warm ups on 7,8,9. The 5.9 was a sweet, long arete that was overhanging in the upper half. The holds were super good, making it a fun and secure climb.

Next, I bit off more than I could chew with some 5.10s. The two I chose were both really strange. The first was almost entirely slopers (not my favorite!). The second required a good bit of awkward stemming on mediocre holds.

We moved over to another section for some more 5.10s. The few that I got on there felt really good, full of big holds for the steep sections. Unfortunately, I was already pumped, so I needed to rest on every climb.

The last two climbs I did were fun and unique. They were much more technical, with small holds and balancing moves. The first was less than vertical. I think I do pretty well on slabby stuff, so I felt good. The second was about vertical with really small holds. I was able to utilize some side-pull and toe-hook action on that one, which was fun!

next:

Next Saturday, I am headed to Foster Falls for a Vandy ORC trip. I have a couple climbs that I want to lead. Then I have a couple open weekends during which I plan on taking climbing trips to Chattanooga for some trad. TRAD IS RAD!

Today's session was good for my confidence. While I didn't prove myself to be any stronger or better than I thought, climbing so much today was awesome! I'm excited for the rest of this semester's climbing!

So much to do

The outdoors are becoming my life more and more in recent years. I've gone from being the good ol' american athlete playing football and baseball as a kid to now participating in these fringe rec activities of climbing, mountaineering and ultra trail running. This is only the beginning though. I don't want outdoor activities to be my hobbies but a lifestyle! I want to be a climber and a runner and a mountaineer - an overall adventurer.

Currently, my interests are mostly focused on climbing. This summer afforded me the opportunity to develop a lot as a climber, honing skills in multipitch climbing, traditional climbing and pushing me physically. Coming back to middle TN, though, I am awaken to the tremendous growth left in my future. What is 5.8, for example? Sometimes 5.8 is a warmup for me. Other times, 5.8 is the perfect trad line for me. And still other times, 5.8 is a struggle. What?! I don't even want to have to ask that question. Okay, so I realize that ratings are relative and that climbing a certain grade is not my reason for climbing, but still I have that drive! I want to climb 5.8 no problem - no concersn whatsoever. Heck, the same for 5.9! By my graduation, I would like to be a solid 5.10 leader! Will it happen? I don't know, but I certainly realize that it won't just be bestowed on me. What do I need to work on? Well, for starters, strength in my fingers and upper body. I need to get on steeper stuff. In general, I need to push my climbing to the next level. I have been too complacent for too long and not getting much better.

That was a rant. You get the point -- I want to get better! I will be working on it. Whenever I can, I want to get out to Chattanooga to T-Wall, Sunset, Fosters and to the little cliff that could, King's Bluff in Clarksville. I have a full rack now and just want to climb!

My running has been pretty down since I didn't do much this summer. Even since returning to Nashville, I have run (at most) 3 times per week and topped out at 12mi once. At this point, just 3 weeks from a 50k, there's not much I can do in preparation, so I will just be maintaining and hoping for the best. This one might be harder than the last...

In other news, I have added one more outdoor skill to my toolset - kayak rolling. Last Tuesday, I attended the Outdoor Rec's weekly roll clinic. That night I went through a progression, practicing technique, hip movements, paddle movements, different rescue techniques and, finally, the roll. After a pretty intense 1h15mins, I attempted my first roll and completely floundered. With some intense training over the next ~10mins, I got the roll and repeated it a couple of times. I was actually amazed on my first succesful roll. It felt so easy (doing it the right way) that I thought someone had helped me. I am not the most comfortable person in water, so the kayaking adventure is perfect for pushing my comfort zone. I hope to hit a river sometime this year.

That is all for now. The biggest event is that my girl is finally coming back - one week! I can't wait. It's been a long 4 months.

Back to the Muggy Southeast

Strangely, I miss and appreciate that muggy humidity the southeast offers - the humidity that somehow makes you sweat more until you are soaking wet - the humidity that makes me appreciate my chalkbag after not using it all summer - the humidity that encourages me to drink water again while running.

Yesterday, I got my first day of climbing in since returning to Nashville. A friend and I headed out to King's Bluff in Clarksville. That cute little limestone cliffband next to the Cumberland River makes me happy. To make it better, God blessed us with incredible weather with clear skies and a mix of shady and sunny walls.

Our choice of routes: all 5.8s. The first was "Dogon Meets a Dancer." I led this route a few months ago - my first 5.8. However, yesterday, it gave me some problems. It is slightly more than vertical and requires some good smears. Neither one of those is a strength. Additionally, I started a push up and pull up routine the day before, so I was still sore from that. Regardless, I took what was probably my longest fall at the crux - 8-10ft (not huge). I went on the finish it though.

The 2nd 5.8 is called "Slip Slidin Away." I felt very smooth throughout until the top which ends right at a fairly featureless concave slope. After much evaluation and effort, I took the easy way and pulled on a quick draw to reach the anchors. Oh well. My friend then sent the route for his FIRST lead! It was great to be there for that.

We then stepped over to the left for our final 5.8 climb of the day. I can't recall the name, but it was another good one. The start was a little bouldery but it finished off well. I got pretty pumped at one point and sat a little bit.

Overall, I was a little disappointed in the troubles I had. I expected to be a lot stronger after a summer of solid climbing. I learned that different locations (and even days) yield different challenges. I have learned that ratings vary greatly from place to place. For instance, in Buena Vista, CO, I lead 5.9 and 5.10 (which climbed like 5.8 and 5.9). Of course, that lower angle climbing style on rough conglomerate rock was very different from the vertical, smooth and ledgy limestone of the Bluff. All in all, I had a great day climbing. I have plenty of time to get out and improve.

The best part of the day was taking a cool dip in the river apres climb. That was super refreshing. Being only ~50mins away, I plan on spending a lot of time at the Bluff this year.

That's It...

Summer is officially over for me. I drove the last half from Leadville to Nashville today, moved into my apartment and almost immediately felt a sense of stress come over me upon arrival. This is a different environment than my summer one, for sure. Much of the stress can be attributed to two things: (1) Social stress - SO many people. That's not my style. I'm ISTJ. (2) Anxiety over another year of strenuous chemical engineering work, while all I want to do is be in the outdoors and teaching. Boy oh boy.

Summer Recap

I can honestly say that this has been the best summer of my life. It was incredible for several reasons.

- The fulfillment of facilitating growth for students anywhere from 14 to 54

- Personal growth: discovering a passion for teaching and connecting with people from a myriad of different backgrounds

- Having some baller adventures!!

I am very excited for what God has in store for me in this next year. I can imagine some scenarios of my life next summer and fall (hangin in some awesome town like Durango or Chattanooga both teaching and guiding/outdoor ed), but who knows what cards I'll be dealt. The coolest part is that doesn't bother me! I am excited about the surprise and adventure of life!

Groovin' Slowly w/ My Woman (i.e. My visit to Idaho)

Ha! That is one of my favorite John Butler Trio songs, though it has no direct connection to this section. Having the privilege of visiting the lady-friend after a full 3 months separation was phenomenally refreshing. We now only have one more month before she moves back from the wild west.

Our visit consisted of an overnight trip, some less-than-ideal climbing, visiting her favorite local spots and more. My highlights include: sleeping under the stars with her, getting sketched out on our multi-pitch climb attempt and feeling her support, and sharing our passions and dreams for life together. I eagerly await her return to Tennessee!

One More Course Under the Belt

I just completed my first course with the 14-15 yr old age group - a 14-day backpacking course. It was a lot easier than I expected, actually. Folks around here don't like to work those courses, but we had an amazing group. They were incredibly mature and very compassionate.

Some of the highlights include:

-leading a trad line at Monitor to set up a TR

-playing with teenagers

-getting great views from high passes

-working with two hilarious female instructors (rare to have 2 on the same course)

-sleeping under the stars

-seeing real change and hearing thoughtful insight from the students

Some pics are posted on my Picasa site if you're interested.

A Day of Shredding - FINALLY

That is if you can possibly call my low-moderate grad lead climbing shredding. Anyway, I had a blast today. Four other interns and myself all went out for a full day worth of climbing - 7am to 7pm. Based on the recent rainy weather, we decided to head south to the desert landscape of Buena Vista's Turtle Rock rather than up to Independence Pass.

Down at Turtle, we setup 4 climbs - 1 sport 5.9, 1 mixed 5.10a, 1 trad (~5.7), and 1 TR (5.10b). I lead the all trad route - a line that I simply picked out and connected to other anchors. I also TRed the two 5.10s.

After Turtle, we headed to a newly developed cliff line along the Arkansas River and HWY 24 south of Leadville. One of the interns had been there before and directed us to some great climbs. First, she and I led a sweet 100' sport route (5.8/5.9) that culminated on a spire. It was vertical or more but had solid holds. It was a really fun climb with a good view to boot. Lowering from the anchor utilized every foot of a 60m rope, which was exciting. After that, we headed over to another sport route (5.7/5.8). It, too, was fun with similar ledges and horizontal cracks - a big difference from the crystalized conglomerate of Turtle. After that, though, I decided to lead a trad line. The only thing I knew was that it had an anchor up top, but it looked simple enough and straight forward, so I went for it. The moves were only about 5.6/5.7, but the protection was sparse and less-than-ideal. Rather than following a single crack, I moved side to side, mostly utilizing face holds and blocks. I placed pro where I could - a couple solid stoppers, a good #1, and an inadequate 0.75 (too shallow - more mental protection than anything). I made it up, though, and enjoyed the slightly sketchy and heady pro along with the solid holds.

NEW GEAR

The best part of the day was placing my own gear! I just spent some chollahbills on a rack - BD cams 0.3-3, neutrinos, slings, and DMM Offsets. It felt great to be self-reliant and using my own stuff! I am looking forward to getting much use out of this rack. BONUS: I found a big ol' BD #12 stopper at Turtle. It is the second piece I've found. The first was a large DMM Walnut, so I have the big sizes covered now. :)

Next Step

Well, I leave on a 14-day course soon, and am headed to Stanley, ID, after that to visit the lady friend (HOORAY). I am already planning climbs in the Sawtooths - Super Slab, Elephant's Perch (maybe...), Heyburn Peak, to name a few.

I am stoked about getting back to Southeast climbing too! This fall I hope to climb at Table Rock/Linville Gorge, NC, Red River Gorge, KY, Tennessee Wall, TN, amongst others. I plan on making climbing a priority - like every weekend. Hopefully, senior year and design projects won't be too much of a drag.

I am also lobbying for some big trips (hopefully ORC but possibly personal) to climbing destinations like Joshua Tree, CA, Yosemite Valley, CA, and Red Rocks, NV. Christmas break trip anyone?

Being the Young Guy

"That was the best course I've ever done." That was the concensus among my coinstructors for our Outward Bound Adult Renewal course. The ten adults ranging from 26 to 54, students to professionals, were incredible people. This course was easy, actually, because of their maturity and thoughtfulness. We simply facilitated discussion and they ran with it.

It was such a pleasure for me to see them work through some big life issues and big life decisions. In addition, seeing the growth and recognition of self-confidence, inner strength, and perseverence was moving. Let's just say many a tear were shed on this course.

It is great to work with such a powerfully inspiring organization. I consider myself fortunate.

More photos

While setting up camp, two men drove a whole flock of sheep past us. It was one of the strangest things I've ever witnessed.

Here is a glimpse at my month in the 5th wheel trailer. This is the bedroom, which is conveniently connected (no wall) to the bathroom. The luxurious and spacious kitchen, complete with a range requiring lighting with a handheld lighter, is shown below.

Pictures from my San Juan Adventures

This was my first Couloir, on Handies Peak. The summit, my first 14er, photo is below.

Here is just a taste of some of the gorgeous scenery in the San Juans. Everywhere you look, there are mountains.
This is the trail linking Red Cloud and Sunshine Peaks, two 14ers that Sandra and I hiked on the last day of our trip.

More San Juan Adventures

The 30-day mountaineering course I was supporting is now over. I waved goodbye to my 5th wheel trailer and am now back at base in Leadville. The last couple days were very busy with course end festivities. Before the course concluded though, I got another opportunity to get some field time. Another intern and I went out for three days in the north San Juans.

Day one, we hiked up Grizzly Gulch to Handies Peak. That afternoon we climbed my first snow couloir amidst rain and snow. The slope was pretty steep with a mixture of snow quality. I got a lot of practice kicking steps. It was great to sign my first 14er summit post. We camped that night in gorgeous American Basin looking out on peaks and lakes and the sunset.

After hiking all day on day two, part of which was off trail, we made it back over to the trailhead. On day three, she and I hiked both Redcloud and Sunshine Peaks, both 14ers, with packs. It was a strenuous uphill hike but neat. The peakbaggers were out in droves. Our descent was made via a steep scree slope, over which I jumped and skied and slid. It was my first scree experience and a lot of fun! The trip gave me another great view of the outdoors, the San Juans, and the OB experience.

Course End

The course ended with a big bbq, some community service, and a run. The personal challenge run turned out to be a full marathon over a high pass. I went ahead and ran it (with some uphill walking) despite my lack of running in the last month. It definitely felt like a marathon when I finished in 5hrs. I was pleased that I could still run the distance fairly comfortably though.

I am psyched about climbing right now. In fact, I will be assembling a rack this summer and really want to explore some stuff this fall including Tennessee Wall, Red River Gorge, Table Rock/Linville Gorge, and even out west to Joshua Tree, Red Rocks and Yosemite. Get it!

Vestal Basin

The last four days I was able to leave the 5th wheel behind and venture into the wilderness. On 6/30, an instructor, a student and I hiked the 11/12miles from Molas Lake into Vestal Basin in the Weiminuche Wilderness within the San Juan National Forest. The trip started with a 3,000ft descent to the Animas River and then another 3,000ft back up to Vestal. It was a tough, long day, but we made it in good time and met the rest of the 30-day crew.

The next day, the group decided to rest while some instructors scouted the Wham Ridge. Meanwhile, another instructor walked me through snow school. This was the first time I've self-arrested. We went through the whole progression from kicking snow steps to self-arresting to glissading. I self-arrested on my back, on my belly, headfirst, with a pack. It was pretty fun and good develop for me. Afternoon showers put a damper on any afternoon climbing plans. A few days ago I picked up some fishing line and flies from a shop. In the afternoon, I headed over to super cold Vestal Lake to try my hand. After only a few casts, bam!, a rainbow trout was on my line. I quickly took up the line with my hands and got the fish out of the water. THEN, the wish wriggled off the hook and back into the water. FAIL. I was super disappointed. I could taste that pan-seared trout already.

The plan was to climb Arrow and Wham the next two days. We awoke at 3:45am to cloudy skies and rain, so Wham was cancelled. A couple of hours later, though, the sky was stable enough for us to head up Arrow. Three instructors, myself, and the 7/8 students headed up. The ascent route was mostly talus and low angle slab with some lower 5th class moves. It took two fixed lines in techy places. This was my first summit! The peak offered beautiful views of peaks for miles. The rain and hail came quickly and made those slabs very sketchy. Those two fixes turned into seven fixes.

I was really happy with the climb. The instructors were great! They made an intentional effort to incorporate me into the climb. I helped spot students, manage ropes, clean fixes, and even helped build anchors. It gave me a good picture of being an OB instructor.

After a stormy night of thinking my tent was gonna blow away, I awoke, packed and headed back to civilization. Right before leaving, the mountain goats came into camp, which rounded out my wildlife sightings of pikas and ptarmigans. Seeing the San Juans was incredible and the development I got out of the trip was priceless. This course is so unique and has given me a very broad experience within OB. I love it! Now I prepare for the final resupply which requires going over a 4x4 pass. I'll definitely report back on that.

Enjoying Creation

Two days ago, I experienced the most incredible hike of my life. Heading out from Little Molas Lake on Hwy 550, I took the well-packed Colorado Trail up a series of switchbacks. Very quickly, the trail was moving up the naturally terraced, rock lined hill side above treeline. After only about ten minutes, I decided to turn the run into a hike in order to more fully take in my surroundings. It was during the next few minutes that I fell in love with God and his creation again. Like the psalmist, I felt incapable of withholding praise. The mountains, the hills, the sky - they all are a testament of the power, beauty and creativity of God. Furthermore, as his creation, I naturally feel most satisfied and complete when encompassed by his glory that is nature. This summer is almost surreal to me. I have the privilege of hanging around beautiful Colorado, hiking, camping and interacting with incredibly interesting people. In the moment, I can perceive that this is a pivotal point in my life. God is teaching and developing me everyday, and I am grateful. Even my future path is starting to become less murky. I don't know what the future holds but I am not worried, knowing that he will guide my ways and work everything for the better.

In other news, I've spent a couple days in Durango this week. A friend and I went up to XRock off Hwy 550 and I led Left X, a full trad route. Although only rated a 5.7, it was stiff. The additional mental stress of playing your own gear is amazing. It is completely different from sport climbing. I love it. Yesterday, we went on the Alpine Loop in a friend's jeep. This 4x4 path of old mining roads winds through some beautiful parts of the San Juans. It was a fun drive. We eventually went to Velocity Basin, a cirque-like area surrounded by peaks. The accumulating snow was melting off to leave astoundingly blue water. I've never seen such color in water before. In some spots, the water over the top of snow, leaving the snow dimpled and pitted - a neat look.

Climbing Bonanza

Today was an awesome day!  I had the morning off so I went climbing out at Cecille Ville N of Leadville.  When I came back to work, we were all given the afternoon off, so we went down to Buena Vista to climb at Turtle Rock!  YES!

Cecille Ville is a small granite outcropping on the side of Hwy 91.  It had 6-8 sport climbs on it.  My fellow intern and I headed out this morning, greeted by one of our first beautiful sunny and rain-free days.  Without a guidebook, we simply picked a line and hit it.  I led it first and then he led it.  It was probably around a 5.7 and was not too bad.  The rock was frigid though.  This place is definitely an afternoon climbing destination.  We then set up a TR from above on a harder route - ~5.8/5.9.  It was a more balancey face climb using small hands and feet.  They were fun and we had a great time.

In the p.m. a group of 4 of us headed out to Turtle Rock in Buena Vista.  We did some anchor training here last week.  Again, I scouted a route and hopped on it.  It was kind of an arete, face, dihedral mix.  The ~70-80ft route only had like 4 bolts, so I placed some protection in the middle section - 2 nuts and a cam.  The granite there had big ol' crystals.  I was weary of one popping off but they were my only source of holds really so I took advantage.  This lead was probably 5.8+, maybe 5.9.  The runout nature and the delicate holds made for a very heady lead.  I felt very accomplished at the top!  After that, I hopped on this rad crack that a friend led.  The bottom was a face with delicate feet and some flakes for hands.  The big move is only about 15 ft up - a little dual hand crimp with little to no evident feet.  Off that crimp, one has to get high feet, extend upward to an overhead flake - stick a fist in for a bomber handjam.  After that, you just work the flake/crack up the rest of the way.

All in all, it was an awesome day!  My next goal is to climb some multipitch at Monitor Rock on Independence Pass.  "The Nose" route is 5.7 trad and about 5 pitches.  Maybe tomorrow. :)

ROCK ON!

Outward Bound Intern Update 1 - Where's Waldo?

We eleven interns, ranging from 21 yr old college students to a 40 yr old and everything in between, successfully completed out 12-day training yesterday. The training consisted of a lot of history and philosophy of OB, creating a positive group culture, teaching, support and logistics aspects and tech skills. As an intern, I will where two hats: (1) Support Intern - doing supply and logistics operations for courses in the field, (2) Field Intern - acting as an assistant instructor in the field. We were barraged with info concerning logistics and supply. We will know the warehouse inside and out by the end of the summer.

Some highlights of the field section - 5 days:

• Building climbing anchors off of trees and gear
• Learning about fixed lines in the alpine
• Crafting a group tarp into a waterproof shelter
• Eating an abnormal amount of field food
• Seeing the mountains and desert of CO
• Bonding with my coworkers

We were given our course schedules on the last day of training. I am stoked about mine. First, I will be supporting a 30-day course in the San Juan Mountains in Southern CO. It is one of the most intense trips and support responsibilities. It will involve me spending most of the trip in Silverton, preparing resupply for the trip and awaiting any necessary evacuations. Hopefully, I will get the chance to spend some time in the field with the course. The area is supposed to be beautiful. Then I will have 5days before starting a field section with mostly 30+ yr old adults. The course is 14 days long and will involved some climbing and backpacking. After another 5 days or so, I head out again with a crew of 14 and 15 yr olds for two weeks. It should be a pretty awesome summer! Tiring and intense, but awesome.

Leadville is a neat area, nestled in a valley between the Mosquitos range to the east and Mounts Elbert and Massive to the west. There is outdoor rec to be had in any direction. Today, for instance, I ran 15 miles around a lake and then did some sport climbing - not a bad day. I am probably going to run another long run on Sunday. Before the field training, my running was pretty good. I managed about 30miles in the week before. However, if I want to do the 50miler in late July, I need to step it up. A friend is pacing the 100, so she and I will probably check out some of the 100 course and do some night running. Besides running, I want to improve my trad leading. Today's climbing exhibition was lack luster. I failed on a 5.9-ish lead and was pumped out. I do not like steep face. I like long, low angle, multipitch, easy stuff. Sorry, that is the sort of climber I am. I don't dream of climbing 5.12s. I just want to go have fun.

In other news, my lady-friend has hit the road to Idaho. That means we will both be living adventurous lives in the mountains for the next couple months. Unfortunately, it means that we most likely not see each other until September - a real bummer. Maybe....something can work out. We'll cross our fingers. We are going to read a book together, John Piper's "Don't Waste Your Life," and I am excited about that. It's nice having someone to care about and to share life with.

Hello Mountains. It's a pleasure to meet you.

Hizzah! I have made it to Leadville! First, let me recap the last couple weeks.

My finals ended April 30th, and I had a surprisingly excellent semester grade-wise. The night of my last final, the GF and I headed South from Nashville to N Georgia to stay with my uncle and aunt. The next day we drove down to the University of FL to stay with my older sister and brother-in-law. My folks, grandparents, and little sis drove up to meet us. We had a nice afternoon and evening together. That was the extent of my family time for the summer.

The following day, we drove up to the FL panhandle to stay in a condo on the beach for a few days with friends. This was "Senior Beach Week." The gf done gradiated. The beach was wonderful. The quality time with friends and time relaxing were much appreciated and needed. I had not been to the beach in a long time. I LOVE the warm son, salty air, even the cooing seagulls. We had a blast. Then the crew drove back to Nashville for graduation. Unfortunately, graduation was moved inside due to inclement weather. It was a good ceremony regardless. Vandy knows how to run a classy event. We indulged in strawberries and champagne afterward.

For the few days between graduation and my departure, I stayed in Nashville at the gf's parent's house. It was great. We lounged, hung out. I had a great time with her family -- even met both sides of gparents. We went to her brothers h.s. soccer game, went for runs, hung out with friends -- very nice. I did have to leave eventually though.

I left Nashville Tuesday morning with a friend. We caravaned to Kansas City to stay at her house. THANK GOD FOR HOSPITABLE PEOPLE! She gave me the driving tour and introduced me to KC BBQ at Oklahoma Joe's. It was fun staying with her fam as well. It's really nice to meet the families of my college friends. Being at college, it sometimes seems like we lead double lives (school and home). After spending Tues and Wed night with that family, I moved on to Colorado Springs to stay with the brother of my roommate. We enjoyed a good dinner and chat.

After an early wake up, my roomie and I headed out to the Red Rock Canyon Open Spaces in CO Sprgs. It is a newer climbing area filled with slabby orange sandstone. We opted to go there rather than Garden of the Gods because GotG is mostly trad and RRCOS is all sport. He had never climbed outside before so we headed over to some easier routes. After finally orienting myself and finding the right route, I led a 5.6 and he Top Roped (TR) it. We then did a 5.7 next door. Both climbs were low angle slabs with tiny edges. It was a day of intense footwork. He did well - completing both climbs. I was very impressed with the area. As a city park, it is well managed, easy to get to and around, and the rock is good. We chose a beautiful day and thoroughly enjoyed the contrast between the looming monstrosity of Pike's Peak and the bright orange sandstone of the Canyon.

After lunch, we parted ways and I headed out scenic Hwy 24. It was a very pretty drive. the two-lane hwy weaves in and out of small mtn towns and up and town hills, gorges, and mtns. The most amazing scene was heading towards Buena Vista and seeing the whole row of 14-ers of the Collegiate Peaks. For miles, I drove across prairie towards the beautiful snow-capped mtns. Likewise, Hwy 300 going to the OB basecamp presented me a magnificent view of Mounts Massive and Elbert.

I got in about 4pm, checked-in, got settled and sought out to explore. I am living in a bunkhouse, so I have a shotty wooden bunk bed with a minimal mattress (whatever). All my stuff is jammed under the bed. About 5pm I set out to do an easy acclimitization run. There is a pretty extensive network of trails around the base camp, and I think I saw most of them today (unintentionally). There is a beautiful mtn stream running down from the mtns along some of the trail. Other sights include the bunkhouses, cabins, and tents, rope courses and more of OB, the US Fish Hatchery nearby (what is a fish hatchery?), and the trail for Mt Massive. In fact, I found myself running up that trail to the mtn. Fortunately, I felt somewhat misguided and eventually found my way back down to camp -- very tricky. I will hike/run that trail someday. I saw that the CO trail goes by as well, which I believe is part of the Leadville 100 course. My short run ended up being an adventurous 1hr run. I could definitely feel the altitude. I simply felt more tired and got winded easier. However, it wasn't devastating. I will definitely be exploring this summer. I will need to be careful, no doubt.

Well, day one has nearly concluded. The sun is setting now at 8:30pm, the temp is dropping into the 40s and I am feeling worn out. I am going to relax, read, and journal. Training starts Sunday, so I will be exploring some more tomorrow.

Goodnight cyberspace.

One Awesome Summer

Internship

This summer I will be living and working in Leadville, CO, which at 10,000ft is the highest city in the nation.  I am interning with the prestigious outdoor education company, Outward Bound.  I will likely spend about 80% of working hours doing logistics and support work and 20% leading and teaching.  I am stoked!  I know this will be such an incredible opportunity to enhance both my technical and leadership skills.  

The Leadville base camp outfits extended trips in Alpine Backpacking, Mountaineering, and Rock Climbing, mostly for teens 14-19.  As an intern, I will have the privilege of coleading a 14day trip in one of those disciplines.  I love leading and teaching and really look forward to the opportunity.

Two weekends ago, I went down to the University of Georgia in Athens to get my Wildness First Aid certification (WFA).  The class was really good.  We were taught skills and are authorized to treat cases of anaphylaxis (allerigic reactions) by inject epenephrine, set and splint broken bones and unstable joints, clean and bandage wounds, and care for potential spinal injuries.  While not really in depth medically, the course did a great job teaching me to assess the situation, interview the patient, and evaluate how serious the injury was.  We did a lot of hands-on mock scenarios including make-up and even got to inject (and be injected) with saline solution by another person.  I'm glad I took it and would like to take a Wilderness First Responder in the future for more information and experience.

Running

As you may know, Leadville is a iconic place for trail running.  The small town of 2,000 hosts a series of annual running and mountain biking races including the Leadville 100 Trail Run and the Leadville 100 Mountain Bike Race (in which Lance Armstrong placed second in 2008).  

The OB campus is located right near the trail system on which these races are won, so I will have immediate access to some awesome running.  In fact, a trail supposedly leads directly from the OB base to Mount Massive.  One of the aid stations for the 100 miler is even near the base.  How much luckier can I get?!  

I plan on taking full advantage of the altitude and trail running opportunities.  I have some goals/plans for my running this summer: (1) Run the Silver Rush 50miler, which is part of the series in Leadville; (2) Pace the Leadville 100; (3) Return to Nashville a new man - ready to be WIN or atleast be competitive in some fall races, including the Stump Jump 50k and the Flying Monkey Marathon.

I am trying to get a good base of training going into the summer, so that after a quick acclimatization, I can hit it hard.  I would like to get some real solid weekly mileage in, maybe 40-60mi range and get up to 70mi/wk or so before the 50miler.  An inconsistent schedule could make that tough for long runs, but I should definitely be able to get one (or two) runs in per day.  I already have one long run planned from the suggestion of my boss and a backpacker article.  The 28-mile loop in the Maroon Bells Wilderness goes over four passes above 12,000ft and would be an excellent training run for the 50 and 100 runs.  I have already signed up as a potential pacer for the event.  I will hopefully get into contact with someone via internet or in Leadville who I can pace.  That would be an amazing experience, running through the night with a stranger pushing him/herself to the brink of exhaustion in one of the most beautiful and grand settings in the world.  Two people just might bond a little bit after that.  

Climbing

I am really hoping to improve my climbing and leading skills this summer.  I have already looked into locations around Leadville.  I have found several places about 30mins away that look good.  Not having trad gear will limit my exploration potential, but I'm sure some others will have some.  One place I would really like to check out is Garden of the Gods near Colorado Springs.  The cool sandstone formations there seem really neat.

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I will certainly update the blog throughout the summer.  I am REALLY excited for the experiences and growth I will have.  The only downside is that the GF will be many miles away in Idaho, so we may not see each other for four months.  I guess I will get good at writing letters and talking on the phone. :)

Country Music Marathon

Today I ran the 10th Annual Country Music Marathon here in Nashville, TN.  It all materialized over the last few weeks.  I had not signed up for the marathon because (1) I was not sure I wanted to push for another marathon and (2) I didn't want to pay the high entree fee.  I was also very skeptical about the whole set up, size, and commercialization of it all.  The CMM is at the opposite end of the spectrum from the Flying Monkey, you see.  I was pleasantly surprised though.  The aid stations and the bands were great.  It was nice hearing a variety of music, and the large number of people did keep away the loneliness.  Anyway, a friend of mine had signed up and then decieded she didn't want to do it, so she offered me her registration.  The deal wasn't solidified until Wednesday and I got the number last night.  

My girlfriend and her best friend were running it together, so I made it my purpose to be their cheerleader.  They both ran their first marathon in the fall and wanted to do this one under 4h.  In fact, the goal was to keep a 8:45 pace average.

We started off very well, keeping a solid average despite the overwhelming crowd.  With so many people, a lot of energy is wasted bobbing and weaving through the crowd.  It's just weird having people around at all times.  

Probably around mile 10, the friend started having some trouble.  She was feeling very warm and being very quiet, so I thought something was not right.  It was at that point where we started taking walk breaks.  The pace stayed about the same, but she designated when we breaked.  Fortunately, I got her to start drinking a lot of water, pouring some on her head, and she continued taking some gels in addition to Cytomax.  The remaining fifteen miles contained much of the same, a cycle of her running and walking with me and my girlfriend encouraging.  

While I would have loved to have seen the girls go under four hours, I was very proud of their race.  We finished around 4h19min.  My girlfriend ran a strong race and felt great.  And her friend showed a lot of determination and mental strength.  They did a great job!  

As for me, I was very happy with the run.  While I have continued running consistently since Mountain Mist in January, my longest run was twelve miles, I think, and my weekly mileage barely topped 30miles/wk.  I knew I could run 26.2 - I've done it twice already.  However, I wasn't sure how painful it would be.  I hoped to have enough energy to help the girls out and not suffer completely.  Throughout the race and afterwards, I felt very good.  I was surprised.  I had some soreness in my quads, feet, and IT band, but I felt much much better than I did after the Monkey.  Of course, the Monkey was MUCH hillier and I ran 55mins faster.

I managed fuel very well.  I carried a bottle of Gatorade, and refilled it with water several times.  In addition, I drank water and Cytomax at almost every aid station and dumped water on my head.  I also ate 4 gels (1 GU Roctane, 1 Hammer, and 2 Carb-boom), two orange slices, a couple handfuls of Raisinets, and some banana.  I did not experience any spikes in energy.  After the race, I dranka bottle of Cytomax and bottle of water.  

The experience I gained supporting other runners today will hopefully help me if I pace Leadville in August.

Congrats to all my friends who ran and completed the half and full marathons today.  Also, a HUGE thanks to my buddy who gave me her registration!

 

Maybe I Should Slow Down

Climbing

It was a big weekend, or Saturday at least.  I got out to King's Bluff with a buddy to get some good leading in.  We met at 8am and drove the 1hr out to Clarksville.  I brought my Petzl rope, Spirit draws, and a small trad rack (borrowed).  It was recommended to me that I not try trad at the Bluff due to its lower rock quality and nature of the limestone, so I thought I would just practice playing some pro - I didn't.

Anyway, my friend and I quickly hopped on a 5.7 called "New Purchase."  We both led it without a problem.  We then headed to "The Dogon Meets a Dancer," which was listed as a 5.8+.  My hardest lead to date was a 5.8, also at the Bluff, so this lead was a step up.  It was great!  There were some more powerful sections and a good sustained crux.  In the toughest section, I set my mind to it and quickly powered through.  If it had been a 5.9 or 5.10 on toprope, I probably would have gone slow and stopped and worn myself out, but I knew I have to go right through tough sections if I want to lead and climb harder stuff.  It was fulfilling to lead that.

Next we walked farther down the cliff towards the beach to get to a row of 5.7s.  There, we led two of them - "Pop Off" and another.  We decided we would closeout the day by trying a 5.9 for the first time.  The climb was "L.A.G.," given three stars by the Dixie Cragger's Atlas.  It was not meant to be.  My friend had a rough time from the beginning and couldn't make it past the first bolt.  He took a couple falls in those first few feet.  My attempt was a little better.  I got to the second bolt but could not figure out what to do from there.  This was not a problem with hesitancy either.  I just didn't know where to go.  I tried a couple times, up different paths, without success.  Defeated, I was not going to leave gear, so I got in a position to unclip the second draw and then downclimbed down an easier route before retrieving the first draw.  I was glad that I pushed myself and tried a 5.9.  One day....

The mud at the Bluff was atrocious.  Excited, I wore my brand new La Sportiva Wildcat trail runners.  They accumulated a solid inch of thick, twig carrying mud/clay, much to my dismay.

Run

To continue the break in of the Wildcats, I went on a run with my girlfriend when I got back from climbing.  She is prepping for the Country Music Marathon 4/25 and was planning a 15miler Saturday.  It didn't take me long to realize it was going to be a hard run for me.  I hadn't eaten much and had climbed all morning.  We were both feeling not-so-great after about seven miles.  We stopped at the Harris Teeter to use the restrooms, refill water, and to grab some free samples (me).  We then cut the run short to about ten miles.  Regardless, it was a solid run.

The day culminated with a wonderful picnic in Centennial Park and a jazz concert at Blair (Vandy's music school).

Worn Out

Now I feel sick.  My throat is sore, I'm tired, and sore all over.  Some of it can, no doubt, be attributed to a tough day and an inadequate sleep schedule.  I hope I feel better real soon.

The OBED

I finally made it out to the famous Obed climbing area on Saturday.  It is very well known around TN for it's tough array of sport climbing, giant roofs, and solid trad.  Plus, it's located next to beautiful Clear Creek.  It reminds me of a mix of Foster Falls climbing with Linville Gorge-esque landscape.  It's nice for sure.

The day started much too early, 6:15am wake up, which was amplified by a much too late bed time. :(  I got some much needed rest on the drive though.  Once there, two others and I quickly broke off to explore some trad.  We first hit up a short 5.7/5.8 crack.  However, either the leader climbed too high or the anchor was elusive.  He improvised with a some gear placements and a bolt, and we all got to climb it.  It was ok - maybe not worth the long hike and time though.  

I then joined the rest of the group at Image Wall while the two other guys jumped on a 5.10c.  Over there, I climbed a steep 10 after much hang-doggin.  Then, I led a stiff 5.7 sport.  The group then migrated over to the balcony area.  Along the way we saw some sick roofs. 

I spotted a 5.6 trad climb in the guidebook that I wanted to lead, so I went over there with another guy.  After about 20ft and two nuts, I came to a little roof and hand traverse which seemed pretty tough.  I was doubting my ability and my gear selection, so I down-climbed and cleaned the two stoppers.  I got an experienced friend to come over with hopes of giving it another go.  He went ahead to lead it first.  He said it was definitely not a 5.6, and after further research, we discovered it was actually a 5.9 - good thing I had come down.  I went ahead and climbed it and enjoyed it.

Finally, I headed over to the balcony where the group had some 10s set up.  I decided to do a 5.8 crack variation.  It was a blast.  Most of the crack was about fist-jam/foot jam size with some stemming/dihedral action as well.  It was fairly tall and great practice.  That is my niche.  I may not be great at it, but I would prefer a crack over a face anyday.

We finally got outta there after sunset.  All in all, it was a 16hr trip but a lot of fun!  I'm sure I'll check out more of the Obed within the next year.  

Rock Creek River Gorge 10.2mi Trail Race

The River Gorge trail run was held March 28th by RockCreek in Chattanooga.  It was my second R/C race, and I was not disappointed.  

I went out Friday night with a friend down to Chattanooga from Nashville.  We arrived at Prentice Cooper Wildlife Management about 8:30pm or so where we were going to camp before the race in the morning.  After driving up the mountain, we entered the pitch black area on a gravel road and were greeted by the thickest fog I've ever driven in.  I could barely see ahead of the vehicle.  After going way down the road to the race start area, we turned around and came back to the interest where we found our elusive campsite.  There, we set up the tent - a Kelty Gunnison 2.1 which I really liked - and fixed some pita pizza for dinner.  We each devoured a couple pitas before preparing for bed.  

Around 4am, the fog and mist turned to a heavy downpour which lasted until about 6:30am or so.  We awoke to very wet conditions.  We gathered our things and headed down to the start to checkin.  There we picked up our notoriously good R/C swag - Marmot wicking T, SmartWool socks, Hammer gel, etc. - along with race numbers.  I ate some oatmeal (too close to start time) and we got situated.  A couple friends from Nashville were also running, so we said hey.  

The race started at 8am.  I wanted to go hard and thought I could go under 1:30 for sure and possibly 1:20, so I positioned myself close to the front for the gun.  The lead pack went out hard, led by my friend.  I knew right away I wasn't going to hang with them, so I settled into a hard and steady rhythm in the middle area between the studs and the main pack.  That is where I stayed the entire race.  I don't remember getting passed and passed several runners throughout the race.

The trail was great.  The entire race was single track except for one short jeep road climb.  There were also many creek crossings, ranging from shoe deep which you could jump over to knee deep and strong current.  Those were invigorating for the lower legs.  The race is also very rolling.  The climbs aren't brutal but they were plenty difficult at a hard pace.  

Never during my marathon or 50k have I wanted to drop out or quit.  My primary goals were to finish and I never doubted that.  This shorter, faster race made me hurt though.  I got abdomen cramps, I was breathing hard, my quads hurt.  It took everything I had mentally to push hard throughout the race.

The last third of the race is tough.  At mile 7 there is a big climb and then you run over fairly easy terrain for a couple miles.  Then you descend into the rock garden which is simply a trail through a rocky drainage area.  You have no choice but to leap rock to rock, risking a sprained ankle.  I tried to go as fast as possible, jumping and running and walking when needed.  That short section then leads into a few rolling miles into the finish which seems to spring out of nowhere.  I finished in 1:25:32, worn out.

I was very happy with that.  I felt like I had run hard and really pushed myself, which is exactly what I wanted.  The time got me 8th place, which made me very happy.  I top it all off, I won a jug of raspberry HammerGel.

After the race, I enjoyed some great BBQ with two friends.  Then it was back to Nashville.

My friend did very well also.  I'm proud of her.  It was a great trip.

Pebble Wrestling

Saturday, March 21st, I led a bouldering trip down to Rocktown, GA.  It was a long day trip, requiring us to meet at 7am and return about 10pm.  Everyone had a lot of fun though!  We had a real solid group, including some from the Grand Canyon.

I have only bouldered a few times and lack a good bit of strength and technique required.  That said, this trip was great for pushing myself.  I climbed on some small cliffs, worked on traversing, did a slabby boulder requiring precise footwork, and worked my hand jams on a crack.  I had a good time and definitely got pumped.  My core and forearms are sore today from it.  

In addition to bouldering, I brought along a trad rack to practice placing pro.  I have led two pitches of trad in Linville Gorge, including building an anchor.  I really enjoy climbing cracks and want to develop my trad skills, so I had my boss evaluate my placements after I build some anchors and placed some pieces on the walls at Rocktown.  It was very helpful for me.

After sufficient bouldering time, some guys and I went on a run down the trails and gravel roads of Lookout Mtn.  It was pretty hilly and we were moving pretty well.  At one point, one of them, decided he was feeling good and would play the rabbit.  We ended up running sub-7 for several miles because of it.  I was whooped.  My quads and IT bands were hurting, and I was not hydrated, so it was a tough run.  We got a good 6mi in or so.

The only downside of the trip was that I had to miss my gal's sorority formal.  Fortunately, she had a good time with a friend and others.  

GRAND CANYON - Spring Break '09

I had the great privilege of leading a weeklong Outdoor Rec backpacking through the Grand Canyon 2/28-3/1.  It turned out to be one of the best experiences I've ever had in the outdoors.  

Photos are available at MyShutterfly site and my Picasa site in the links.

Pretrip

Preparation began way back in the fall when we submitted an itinerary to the GCNP personnel.  Our group of 17 was split up into two groups of 11 and 6.  A fellow junior and I led the 11 person group consisting of 7 students and 4 alumni/friends.  Our group secured a permit with the following itinerary: Day 1-Down Grandview Trail to Cottonwood Creek, Day 2-Cottonwood to Grapevine Canyon, Day 3- Grapevine to Lonetree Canyon, Day 4- Lonetree to the tip off and down to Bright Angel Campground, Day 5- Rest day/Day hike, Day 6- Bright Angel to Indian Garden, Day 7- Up and out Bright Angel.  In total, we hiked ~50miles over the seven days.

Preparation included a total of 5 pretrip meetings to discuss gear, logistics, and more.  My coleader and I had to plan a menu for the week, estimate amounts, and purchase a total of ~$500 worth of food!  The group met the week prior to the trip to check gear and split up food and group gear.  Our packs weighed between 40 and 50lbs at the start.

We flew out to Phoenix that Saturday and spent the night in Flagstaff.  Early the following morning, we drove to the Canyon and headed downward.

Conditions - weather, trails and camping

We were incredibly fortunate to have wonderful weather during the trip.  Going down, there was some ice on Grandview, so we donned our instep crampons.  I was hiking in pants and a short sleeve t-shirt given temps in the fifties.  That steep, switchbacked trail offers stunning views of horseshoe mesa and beautiful orange canyon as far as you can see.  The Tonto Trail on which we spent 3 days, is a flatter trail winding in and out of side canyons on the plateau above the river.  The views of the river are incredible, and the rather exposed sections of trail can be thrilling (and nerveracking for acrophobes).  

While the many steep trails carved into canyon walls offer stunning vistas, the Tonto reveals the true desert environment of the canyon.  For miles, the only vegetation one encounters is scrub bushes and cacti.  Scratchy brush and sharp spikes adorn the trail as you walk across a seemingly barren landscape of rocks and sand.  The Tonto offers practically no shade and only occasional water.  Even in the cooler weather, the sun beat down on us and drained us of both water and energy.  

In contrast to the dry plateau, the river offers a rather lush environment with trees, deer, flowers, and lots of shady areas.  Down at Bright Angel Campground & Phantom Ranch, the group took in what this touristy area offers.  We stopped by the Cantina to enjoy some Lemonade and to send postcards by mule.  We also enjoyed a presentation on bats by a ranger.  Bright Angel/Phantom Ranch is fun and offers comfortable conditions, but I much preferred the seclusion and peace of the backcountry.

On our day off, the group decided to head up the N Kaibab Trail to Ribbon Falls.  It is a one way trip of about 6miles and 1300 ft.  Looking to loosen the legs some, I chose to run to the falls and wait for the group.  When they arrived, we enjoyed a nice packed lunch, and took pictures by the humble falls.  It was a nice 4hr round trip (3hrs for me).

Another fun day was when we hiked from BA to Indian Gardens.  After setting up camp, we hiked the 1.5mi out to Plateau Point.  There, we just lounged around, shot some photos and read.  The ranger has a modest library set up at camp, and we borrowed a couple books - "Death in the Canyon" and "It Happened in the Canyon."  That day was very peaceful and relaxing.

The Group

This was a fantastic group of individuals.  They were helpful, eager to be involved and to learn.  There was very little complaining and discontent, and everyone was fit enough for the physical demands.  The mixture of 6 undergrads, 1 PhD candidate, and 4 young professionals made for a very fun dynamic.  We students were all sad to see our older friends depart early to make a flight.  One of my favorite parts of backpacking is the group dinner, and we had some great dinners.  In order, we enjoyed spaghetti, pita pizza (my favorite), mac 'n' cheese, potatoes and soup, quesadillas, and Mexican rice and beans.  No question, the group made the trip.  I could and would enjoy a GC solo hike, but a tough group would have really put a damper on this trip.  We were lucky.

What I Learned About Leading

(1) Consult the group before making itinerary changes. Before the trip, I convinced the other coordinator that we should extend our first day by crossing the top of Horseshoe Mesa and coming down the N side back to Cottonwood Creek. She agreed and we lead the group on our new route. Unfortunately, once we were well across the Mesa a mile or so, we were uncertain of our route down and several people were getting nervous about the heights involved. In a mix of group mutiny and democracy, we decided to back track and descend the original route. The detour added about 2mi to our first day and a considerable amount of time.

(2) Keep the group together. After the Mesa excursion, we were in a hurry to be the setting sun and find our camp. In my haste, I pushed ahead followed by two others. We find our campsite but the group was all split up. I then had to find and direct people to our camp as they came along. On top of that, one person lost a water bottle and went back to retrieve it. The result was a tired and demoralized group. We had a good dinner, and vowed to stick together for the remainder of the trip.

(3) Make sure group has a mutual goal/purpose with stated commitments to each other. In a trip of this nature, it is vital for every member to be committed to the well-being of the group. A lack of motivation, concern for others, or contribution in one individual can spoil the moods and experiences of others. We were fortunate to not have any major problems. However, we could have done a better job making sure everyone was on the same page before hand.

Personal Experience

First, I wanted this to be an opportunity for me to return to center, refocus, and relax. I was not hoping for a very spiritual trip and I was not disappointed. The GC is amazing! Even after a week, I cannot fully appreciate the grandeur and majesty of it. I wish I could watch time-lapse footage of it forming - all that time and energy. Nature is a very important part of my relationship with God. The canyon is a testament to His power, creativity, and beauty. I could not help but stand amazed before it and recognize Him for giving me the opportunity to enjoy it. A friend gave me a small journal to take along. Writing every day brought great fulfillment and the chance to reflect. It was great. I know I will enjoy looking back on it many years from now.  

Finally, the trip granted me some clarity in my career desires. I have invested 3 years in Chemical Engineering, a very tough major. Unfortunately, I have known since sophomore year that ChE is not what I want to do, but I have never been willing to make the switch (largely because of uncertainty of alternatives). The week before the trip it occurred to me that I would much rather spend my time outside in the environment than in an office. The outdoors is where my heart is. I am happy and excited and close to God when outside. Moreover, I thoroughly enjoy teaching and leading. Being in the canyon with this group and having the ability to experience it all not only for myself but with others confirmed by thoughts. Thus, I applied to some outdoor internships the first week back, including internship with Outward Bound, Student Conservation Association, and a Christian camp called Mount Hermon. I am really excited about the possibilities and hope one of them works out.

Tough (and Awesome) Weekend

Saturday was Grand Canyon prehike day.  About eight of us headed out to Percy Warner Park to hike about 7 miles (the red and white) with fully loaded packs.  The weather was great (50s) and the group was fun.  We demonstrate tent set up, water filtration, and stove lighting in addition to pack adjustments.  My pack was about 55lbs and it whooped my butt.  I am pretty fit endurance wise, but my legs were hurting.  I am still sore in the hips and calves.  The group did really well.  We will not have any fitness problems.

On Sunday, I helped coordinate a King's Bluff climbing trip.  It was a big group (15 total) filled with all graduate students.  They were pretty good climbers actually.  Most had gym experience.  We had two distinct groups of 5.4/5.5 level and then some more 5.8/5.9 level, but everyone got their money's worth.  I led several more climbs - a 5.4, 5.6, and my FIRST 5.8, "Old Fart".  It was an alright climb.  I did well.  I climbed a 5.9 later that whooped me. It was kind of pumpy and wore me out.  I am not in good climbing shape and I don't like steep, face climbing much.  I prefer cracks and lie-backs and that stuff.  I just need to climb more and challenge myself more.  I am a slower climber and have trouble committing to moves.  I need to do 5.8s and 5.9s over and over, take some falls and learn from it.  I try to minimize hanging on the rope - I feel lousy when I do it.

And on a side note, I had an awesome V-day!  

Wild At Heart - Commentary

Update

Believe it or not, I have been active over the last few weeks.  I have not posted a  whole lot due to business and lack of a real goal to work towards.  I really should sit down and think about that.  Besides climbing last weekend, I have a been running fairly regularly.  I have gotten in a few days per week the last couple and am feeling pretty good.  On Monday, I had my first tough run since the 50k.  We went about 8miles under 8:00 pace.  I felt unusually tired and sore for that effort - probably a result of still being in recovery from Mist.  I hope to get more trail running in along with some long runs with friends who are training for the Country Music Marathon.  I would like to run it, or the half, but the desire is not strong enough.  It is also expensive.  One day I would like to do a flat marathon and attempt to BQ.  Finally, this weekend will be pretty busy.  I have a Grand Canyon practice hike with my group Saturday.  We are going to do about 7miles with full packs.  THEN, it is Valentine's Day!!  I'm really looking forward to that. ;)  I am leading a beginner climbing trip to King's Bluff on Sunday.  It should be great and afford me the opportunity to get in a lot of leading.

The Meat and Taters

The real jist of this post is about a book I have begun reading.  It is "Wild At Heart" by John Eldredge.  It is a Christian book about the soul of man.  In a nutshell, it proposes that God gave men a heart for adventure and excitement.  The author celebrates battle, fighting, the outdoors, and manual labor.  I will use my blog as a sounding board here for a few days as I read and digest the material.  

I was hesitant to even read the book.  Even the way I describe it turns me off.  DON'T MISUNDERSTAND ME.  This book is about masculinity in its true form.  It does not celebrate or encourage being machismo or cocky.  It is about knowing God and understanding His nature reflected in us.  I do not consider myself a warrior - atleast not in the traditional sense.  My thoughts follow:

I am grateful for what God has done in my life.  Although I am just now realizing and analyzing some of these "masculine" desires such as a yearning for adventure, excitement, the desire to be a knight in shining armor for some woman, my soul and heart have been developed in a subconsciuos way throughout my life.  I believe I have been set on a solid path and pointed in a good direction without me even realizing it.  For that, I am amazed and thankful.  

Let me elaborate.  When I was a toddler, I was somewhat defiant.  I pushed down other kids, told my father "no" often and was always asking "Why?".  A part of me has always disliked being labeled - put in a box.  I especially dislike being forced into something.  For example, in high school, I was dating an older girl who I met in ROTC.  Between uniform inspections, I would grow out my limited chin hair (hardly a beard) and she encouraged it.  My ROTC instructors, however, did not approve.  After several weeks of warning and confrontation, it all came to a head when the head instructor, retired Marine Corps Lt. Colonel, called me in for a "one-sided discussion."  He basically gave me an ultimatum to shave or leave the program.  I told him that I understood and respected his rules and authority and would oblige but that I disagreed strongly with it.  I went on to be the commander of the unit which was named #1 NJROTC in the Country 2006.  

From the age of five I have played sports.  I played about 10 years of baseball, 12 years of football, 4 years of track and 2 of basketball.  I credit sports - and largely my father who coached me most of those years - for molding my personality.  They taught me hard work, how to succeed gracefully and how to deal with and overcome failure.  They instilled in me a spirit of competition and confidence.  It is vital for a boy, man, and every one to know that he has inside him what is necessary to accomplish his goals.  I was not always successful but I could go into a sport or event or competition fearless.  Still to do this day I am able to confront challenges without fear or very much anxiety at all.  I credit years of working hard in sports for proving to myself that I can do it.  When a person is confident in their ability, taking risks for an adventure is a lot easier.  That is what allowed me to join the varsity basketball team as a senior with only 7th grade experience.  I wasn't good, hardly played, and didn't even have fun by the end of it, but I went into it head first because it was something I wanted to do.  Lately I've learned to apply that persistence to women.  The author highlights that women yearn to be desired and really pursued.  As a man, I sometimes want the easy way out.  I want to tell her right away, "I like you.  Let's date."  Instead, I've learned to be patient and persistent in my pursuit of woman.  It is one of the most challenging things for most men, I think.  Women are scary.

My life has taken some pretty wild turns within the last couple years.  I mean, my development as an individual and especially as a Christian man has come a long way.  Without me even knowing it, I have been following the deep call of my heart for adventure.  I have known that I want something different and new and exciting, but I have never really delved into the source of that desire - until now.  First, I left high school, my family, and my hometown to come to Nashville, TN.  While still writing application essays, I planned to reinvent myself in a way in college.  The fresh slate offered the opportunity for me to be a more adventurous, more friendly, more open person, and a more loving and devoted follower of God.  I was in charge of my life and the direction of it for the first time.   I started taking up new hobbies.  Since I graduated high school I have done all of the following activities for the first time: cycling, climbing, backpacking, whitewater paddling, long distance running, caving, playing mandolin, and probably more.  I've tried out new churches, met new people, pursued women.  It has been an adventure every step of the way - and I love that.  How can I answer when someone asks why I rock climb, or run a 50k, or don't shower for 7 days in the Grand Canyon?  Because I can.  Because those things are there for our enjoyment.  I need to push myself.  From Adam forward we are to enjoy God's creation.  Adam lost his adventure and boldness when he idly let Eve consume the forbidden fruit (and then followed).  Abraham was a faithful man who moved wherever God commanded, but he twice said his wife was his sister to protect himself.*  

The toughest part about realizing and seeking this true form of masculinity is committing to it for the long haul.  I'm 21 years old, full of energy and potential.  I have the whole world at my door step.  If I'm going to be an adventurous individual, I'd better make that decision now!  I don't want to fall into the norms of the corporate workplace.  I will not become a slave to work and money, simply following daily routine.  No, I want myself, my wife, and my children to experience life to the fullest.  The author quotes William Wallace (Mel Gibson) saying, "All men die; few men ever really live."  That is pretty corny and comes from the stereotypical man movie, Braveheart, but it rings true.  As does the cliche "Get busy livin' or get busy dyin'."  That doesn't mean that I can't be adventurous and work a normal job.  It just means I had better not get caught up in it.  I am a chemical engineering major, but I don't enjoy it and don't want to do it.  I might pursue a career in environmental engineering, consulting, sustainability or something on that "green" bandwagon.  Or maybe I'll go to Africa for a couple years or be a park ranger or something completely unforeseen.  

God took the biggest risk of all in creating us.  He gave us free will to choose life with Him or without, to eat that fruit or not, and we failed Him.  But the story doesn't end there thankfully.  Like a real warrior, a real knight in shining armor, He is persistent and pursues us and fights for us every step of the way, even when we refuse Him.  And then there is Jesus.  He is not passive.  He is a an adventurer and a rebel, boldly proclaiming the love of His father and condemning the hypocrisy of the pharisees.  He was brave enough to willingly die for that same brood of vipers and for you and me.

I will most likely write again as I work through the book.  All this comes from the first quarter maybe.  Forgive me if anything I say seems egotistical; my intention is solely to use my own experiences to make a case and not to brag.  Also, don't get too impressed with anything I say.  It is all inspired by the book, Wild at Heart, especially the (**) section, and by my journey with God.  Likewise, if you find anything offensive or incorrect, you can blame me (and please let me know).

To all 3 of you who may read this, thanks. :)