Hot Springs and Cold Belays

Hey ya'll. My boy Justin posted a great trip report from Montana ice climbing. Check it out!

Hot Springs and Cold Belays

Posted using ShareThis

Subjective Success

The Gym

Recently my relationship with climbing progressed to a new level. I made the big commitment to buying a gym membership. "Wow," you may say, "getting serious." I had resisted for a long time, but the time has come for me to focus on getting better. Up to this point, my development has been slow and steady. I can presently lead most 5.9 sport climbs and 5.8 trad climbs. I'm very comfortable with climbing systems. Now it's time to get strong!

Anyway, a friend and I were nearing the end of our session after working up the ratings. I worked up from 5.8 to the 5.10s and was getting on a 5.10c (which shut me down with its useless foot jibs). For the first time in my climbing career, I simply wanted the number. I got on that climb only because it was 5.10c. It was the next rung of the ladder. Maybe the gym is just meant to be used in that impersonal way - just a tool to get new bragging rights. Then again, maybe that lack of passion was why I didn't climb the route.

I plan on climbing inside a lot this semester (just as a means to improve my fitness of course - not actually to enjoy the beautiful act of climbing which is confined to the limitless canvas of the outdoors). Maybe I'll do speed workouts or efficiency (fewest moves) workouts. Maybe I'll lift some weights and get my yoga stretch on. We'll see. Regardless, this is a new phase in my climbing life.

The Outdoors

"Today might have to be about subjective success . . ." That was my comment to my girlfriend as we walked the Foster Falls climbing trail. The creekside cliff line is known for its steep sandstone and offers little warm up.

She and I got into the campsite after dark the night before. I lost my headlamp, so she was leading the way. I thoroughly enjoy walking by moonlight, actually. This summer, I would often not use my headlamp around camp during an Outward Bound course (the artificial light ruins my night vision anyway - AND my x-ray vision for that matter). We were lucky to have the campsite to ourselves.

Dinner consisted of fresh white flatbread, tomato sauce with herbs de provence, cheese, pineapple, and ham - otherwise known as Hawaiian pizza. This being our second pita-pizza-cooking session, we have mastered the technique and thoroughly enjoyed the meal aside chips, salsa, and guac. MMmmm!

We eventually turned in for the night. "Is that people?" As a matter of fact, yes - ten boys with and some parents actually. It was okay though. They weren't too rowdy and only collected half the forest worth of sticks for a bonfire. Regardless, we slept great.

In a nut shell, the weather was not ideal for climbing. All day the temps were around 50 and the rock sometimes wet and the wind blowing. At least the climbing was hard though! :) We 'warmed up' on Jacobs Ladder, 5.8. Next we walked to the dihedrals which were soaked and then back to Jimmywood. There are a couple 5.9s there, so I figured I lead one or two. Maybe she could try them as well. "Dang man! Take up rope!" Miss Prissy shut me down. I hung at both of the cruxy sections in route to one of my longest routes (time wise!) since I started leading. At least my fingers were peeling and freezing though . . .

You might say it was a tough day on the rock, but I'd say it was another fun adventure as a couple. We had fun camping and eating! We got some beautiful hiking! We both were challenged! We walked down to the raging falls and enjoyed a nice lunch before driving back to Nashville. I had fun!

Getting a tan in Joshua Tree

What better way to spend winter break than in sunny California, shreddin the gnar? That's why I signed on to lead a week long climbing excursion to the monzogranite filled mojave with Vandy's Outdoor Rec Center. It was a great week filled with slabby faces, sparse protection, fine cracks, and lots of relaxing.

My goals for the trip were to develop my trad leading by leading a lot of moderate gear routes and to push myself on some harder routes. All things considered, it was a very successful trip. All together I led nine climbs between 5.6 and 5.9. I completed four of six routes on my tick list:

(1) Southwest Corner of Headstone, 5.6 - a very exposed corner hanging

out over air. We topped out and enjoyed one of many stunning sunrises.

(2) Overhang Bypass, 5.8 - this intimidating two pitch route ascends easy cracks and slabs up to a big roof. After belaying from a stance, the second pitch takes one across a hand traverse under the roof and up onto a finishing slab. That second pitch is short but full value, and the views and belays are awesome!

(3) Walk on the Wild Side, 5.7+ - I decided to do this route about two months ago as soon as I saw a CLIMBING magazine article about it. It is two long pitches of smooth slab. The first pitch is the crux pitch while the second is pretty cruiser. After starting as a party of two with my buddy, we combined with a party of three and TRed their leader. Sitting at the belay, I couldn't help but hum the namesake tune. "Hey man, take a walk on the wild side."

(4) Colorado Crack, 5.9 - This is near the VERY enjoyable splitter crack Gem, 5.8, in the Conan's Corridor area of Jumbo Rocks. We waited about 2 hrs to climb due to a party of goobs who had problems rappelling the route and then insisted on climbing it over and over. One woman sounded like she birthed twins on route. She took long enough to go through labor, as well. Finally, I got on it. It was a sweet and varied route. The bottom was pretty easy on some flakes and crimps. The middle has a wide crack and a strange pseudo-chimney section through a scoop. It then tops out on a nice hand crack. I was psyched to complete it as my first 5.9 trad lead! After I put in my first piece, I had to down climb and grab my slings which I left on the ground (doh!). Upon topping out, I had only stoppers and a 00 C3 camalot. Therefore, I slung a big boulder and sat down to belay the second with more gear. While shivering in the cool breeze, I was inundated with more goobs who could have killed themselves with their ineptitude. It makes me cherish the solid program that Vandy has!

Some other favorites include: Fun Stuff (5.7), Toe Jam (5.7), Lickity Split (5.7) and Gem (5.8).

Our groups was awesome! It worked out where a friend and I led the moderate group while our boss led some of the more difficult climbs with others. I was really pleased with the climbing, the location, the groups - everything. It was a great trip!

Las Vegas

I don't like Vegas, and I don't like being around a lot of people. Therefore, the airport experiences and Red Rocks were not awesome. Getting to Vegas, we were delayed several hrs when one participant's luggage was lost. After buying stuff from WalMart and Goodwill, it was all found and we set out to drive through the creepy Joshua Tree covered Mojave bye moonlight. We came back to LV for 1.5 days of climbing at Red Rock Canyon. We didn't have time to do the classic multipitch lines, but we got some good single pitch stuff at the Magic Bus and the Black Corridor. I led 5.9 and 5.10a sport routes along with some others. I'd love to do some of the long classics like Cat-in-the-Hat, 5.6, in the future. Maybe over spring break.