Le Tour!

Watching grown men in spandex turn themselves inside out day after day just MOTIVATES me! It brings out the killer instinct in me. You know, that competitive spirit that gets a little bit of satisfaction making others suffer through athletics. It is definitely sadistic and psychopathic, but it breeds success. WHOO - the competition and strength of the tour just gets me going! Dang.

Last Hoorah

After a long hiatus, I return to the blogosphere to rave on my last Vandy Outdoor Rec trip as a college student. This past week took seven others and me to grand Colorado for a climbing fest of no comparison.

Day One - The sickness begins as we fly from Nashville to Denver, then drive to Boulder and set off right away on the 1st Flatiron. The impressively uplifted sandstone is long, slabby, and offers marginal protection. From the looks of it, it probably gets more free solo ascents (no rope or gear) than roped. An older, heavier gentlemen summitted at the same time as me. He climbed it in 57mins. My partner and I took FIVE HOURS! Wow . . . It was a long day. A rope SNAFU left me down climbing, self-lowering, and flipping my lid trying to un-stick the rope on pitch 6 or 7.

After a mellow day of cragging in Golden on day two, we prepared for the trip to Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park.

Day 3 - It's only 2:30 am. UHHHHH. Get up, get dressed, get out the door. Some go to Mt Lady Washington, some head to camp. Nap. Wake up. Wait. Wait. Some return from early morning multipitch climb at 12pm. Finally, we go climb at Lily Lake. That trip is cut short quickly by a raging wind and sand storm - blasting gusts of 50-70mph. Thankfully everyone makes it back safely.

Day 4 - Lumpy Ridge. It's been 2 yrs since first climbing here as a young nooblin. With a part of three, we head to the Left Book to do some easier climbing. Zingando, a 5.5 slab climb offers enough of a mental workout for me. I've never before had to pull a roof on a 5.5. Huh. Any way, it's a fun, though short day at the rock. About 5mi of hiking for just 2 pitches.

Day 5 - The mountains are calling my name. The myth, the man, the legend Jamie Dial, my friend and sidekick Michael, and I head off to climb Dreamweaver, a long and beautiful line on 13,900 ft Mt. Meeker. OH YEAH! After an aerobic hike, we three solo the first few snow pitches before roping up for a mixed rock/ice step. The snow conditions were exceptional, and the climbing spectacular. The first step, which we belayed, offered a neat combo of ice and rock stemming moves. Sick! We simul-clilmbed the second half of the route - mostly snow and one more mixed step before scrambling the summit traverse! WOW - 1500 ft of fantastic climbing! INCREDIBLE!

The descent was the scariest part, though. To avoid the very steep Loft topout, we traversed a snow ramp (if you slide, you're taking a several hundred foot fall off the cliff) into the Loft. Unroped and downclimbing, we all eventually made it. With the hard part done, we had some fun by glissading (sliding) the final few hundred feet! WEEEEEEEE!

Day 6 - Pumped (and tired) from the day before, a few of us headed back to Lumpy for some shredding the gnar. Though I was not particularly motivated and could have simply followed something, fate dealt me a second chance at Pear Buttress. PB was my intro to Lumpy (and climbing) two yrs ago. My partner and I flailed behind our leader, and we bailed after one pitch. This time it was me on the sharp end, and I was prepared to see things through on this mega-classic climb.

Pitch 1 offers a 20ft runout from the ground on 5.7 slab before stemming to the massive flake. Trying to combine P1 and P2, I kept going (but not far enough) to some thing cracks for the belay. A short 2nd pitch got us back on route rather than ascending the 5.10 cracks where I belayed. Pitch 3 is the business! 5.8 finger to hand crack for a hundred feet or more. AHHH! SO SICK! I was flowin, in a strong mindset, and made it happen! The finishing roof traverse was heady was got me to a comfy belay ledge! Oh Yeah! P4 was a short scramble to the cave, and then The Cave Exit, 5.8, blew my mind. Feeling like a corkscrew, I stemmed, spun, and grunted my way around the roof and to the summit. HOT DOG! Two yrs later, I had returned, triumphed over my demons, and enjoyed the best route I've ever climbed. whooo

Day 7 - After two days of gnarly sickness, I didn't think there was much left. An alpine start beckoned once more, however, as I was asked to lead a snow climb for another student. After the hike in from Bear Lake, we were confronted with unusually warm breezes, overcast skies, and melting snow. Based on the impending weather and my low reading on the stoke-o-meter, we decided to not climb. We lingered on the cold rocks til day break for our first nap of the day. We hiked up to the next lake to look for some potential snow-school slopes, all of which ran out directly to the lake. Not wanting to risk taking the plunge, we found some rocks for our 2nd nap of the day. We were able to witness the other party make good progress through a couple pitches of Hallett's Chimney, a very tough snow and ice climb. They bailed after a few pitches due to rock fall, unfortunately, though. We napped at the truck at the trailhead waiting for them, ate some scrumptiously filling BBQ, napped at the campsite, and then went back to Lily Lake to set up a Tyrolean Traverse. I helped anchor the side atop the Edge Of Time climb, but the exposure was too intimidating for me to set off on the traverse. Rather, I walked around to the slab side and, after some encouragement, got my mind blown by hanging out over the abyss. WOW, what an unnatural feeling. At least we did something on that lazy day!

Day 8 - Back to Boulder (after a disappointing detour at St. Vrain Canyon roadside crag). Walking into Eldorado Canyon, one of the world's most well-known climbing areas, I didn't feel like hiking, not to mention climbing. I was just grumpy! We came to a unknown hand crack and I decided I would lead it. Well, after an eternity of placing cams and hanging on them, I nearly aid-climbed to the top. Wow, that was more than I wanted for a first climb in the canyon. Turns out, "Mr Natural" is a 5.8. Great for the pride.... We headed up Redgarden Wall for another 5.8, Schizophrenic. The first 20ft had a tricky traverse on uninspiring gear, but the overall climb was satisfying. I sat at the ledge and belayed Mike from the top, staring off into the beautiful canyon and approaching storms.

Overall, the trip was pretty awesome. While the trip was more laid back than I would have liked (partly due to my own leadership), there were some stunning days, such as Dreamweaver and Pear Buttress! I will definitely hold onto those memories and experiences! For now, I'm glad to be back in Nashville, hanging with the lady friend, and getting ready to start my career as a teacher. I now have a job and look forward to learning and trying to make a difference in the lives of students. Who knows how much climbing I'll be able to do. We'll see. Stay tuned...

Times are a'changin'

Sure thing! You can't stop time.

In the last few weeks, I've seen a few changes.

(1) I've decided to participate in Nashville Teaching Fellows, in which I will teach secondary math in a Metro Nashville school. I am very excited and realized about this opportunity, but I am also slightly terrified by the enormity of this undertaking. I will be teaching math every day to teenagers! Wow!

(2) I've moved into the realm of professional climbing instruction and guiding. It's true! Within the last month, I have come on board with Nashville School of Climbing to provide beginning climbing instruction and guiding. I co-guided a day trip to Foster Falls for some high schoolers a few weeks ago. This week I conducted my first solo instruction as well for two ladies at the gym. I'm excited to continue sharing my love of climbing with others while improving my teaching methods.

(3) I've given into the status quo, and am happy to admit that Chacos have changed my life! I've worn them every day but one for two weeks, and they have already become my favorite shoes! Hooray for summer! I'm waiting for my Patagonia Baggies to come in to complete my summer wardrobe!

Cheers! Enjoy the spring and summer!

I hope to be this good as a teacher!

Good morning.......but I digress. on Bordom.net

New School Tradsters

This video is pretty funny! To each his own when it comes to climbing, as long as he/she is enjoying climbing and not being destructive or rude to others or the environment.

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/6106469/

The Convenience of Sport Climbing

Sport climbing is a style of rock climbing that relies on permanentanchors fixed to the rock, especially bolts, for protection, in contrast withtraditional climbing, in which the rock is typically devoid of fixed anchors, and climbers must place removable protection as they climb. Since the need to place protection is virtually eliminated, sport climbing places an emphasis on gymnastic ability, strength and endurance, as opposed to adventure, risk and self-sufficiency.

- Wikipedia

I spent this last Saturday welcoming spring to the walls of Foster Falls in Tracy City, TN, with my lovely lady friend. A cool, sunny day beckoned t-shirts and much climbing as the sun made its slow arch over the small gorge. As I spent the day clipping bolts and relying on their integrity to catch and support me, I realized a few things about sport climbing, climbing, and my own climbing. First, oblige my rambling criticisms in route to my lessons learned.

(1) Sport Climbing is uber convenient - maybe too convenient. It is very nice to be able to walk to a wall and cruise (or hang dog) up it with bolts and anchors already there. Sport climbing is faster and easier to manage (and potentially safer) than traditional climbing - awesome. However, I've noticed that the convenience brings about a much different climbing atmosphere. For one, people setup camp for hours at sport climbs. If you are willing to setup a hammock, then you are taking too long! Really! I have led a lot of climbing trips all over TN with big groups. When leading those trips, I believe it extra imperative to exemplify considerate climbing ethics - split into small groups, do not leave ropes hanging if people are not climbing, be quiet, and minimize impact. Here is a case I encountered this weekend. As I was cleaning a 5.9, a small university group setup to climb an adjacent climb. As they were scoping the climbs out, and my gf and I were enjoying our fresh lunch of bell peppers, cheese, crackers, and hummus (how cultured), a second university group came up. I realized it was time to leave that bottleneck and go elsewhere, so we went and climbed a 5.10. Close to an hour later, came upon the groups again. Moving past their setup was similar to buhwhacking as I stepped over backpacks and through hanging rope tangles. At that point in the trail, they had blocked all three separate paths. Unacceptable!

To make one more point - AVOID TOP ROPING DIRECTLY ON ANCHORS. I've done it once or twice when I knew my partner couldn't make it up, but I try to avoid it as much as possible. It only took one look at some rings worn halfway through for me to kick that habit. If your party cannot manage to make it up to clean the route (even by yarding on the other end of the rope), then you probably shouldn't be on that climb.

(2) Sport Climbing is GREAT for Working Routes (and for waiting). Not many people other than the Tommy Caldwells and Matt Segals of the world project trad routes. The additional mental and physical effort of placing one's own gear makes trad climbing not as conducive for working routes as sport climbing. At a place like Tennessee Wall or Sunset Park, climbing parties are constantly rotating through routes. While the leading process takes a little longer on a trad climb (compared to a comparable sport climb), most of the hang dogging and camping out is greatly limited. Trad climbers, in my mind, are the more mature and civilized of the climbing breed who are more aware of the environment and climbers around them than some young, gung ho sport climber. That said, I agree with Lynn Hill in Moving Over Stone II, who says that a well-rounded climber is one who can climb everything and defies the labels. It is for that reason that I respect climbers like Lynn Hill and Tommy Caldwell more than super-hard sport climbers. In fact, my favorite part of the Chris Sharma video, King Lines, was when he climbed the classic splitter, Moonlight Buttress. That climb has been free-soloed, but it is still more inspiring to me than his sport climbs.

That said, above is a photo of me hangdogging my way up Fish Eyed Fool, 5.10b. There is a lot to say for the convenience of sport climbing.

Now, what did I learn this weekend? (Positive things, I mean)

(1) Working routes can be fun! I've never projected a route. Almost all of my leads have been onsights. After last weekends onsight sending fest at the Obed, I've been thinking a lot about trying to find my Redpoint level (i.e. How hard I can climb after climbing a route several times). I took some baby steps in that direction this weekend.

Rolffed, a 5.9+ on Rehab Wall, has a tricky face to roof section. The plethora of chalk and two adjacent climbs do not help in finding beta either. My first attempt involved me trying a really shoulder intensive traverse move only to get shut down by the roof. After examining the holds, I found a much easier sequence and finished the route. After my partner (in climbing and love, wink wink) couldn't make it up, I pulled the rope and sent it. Redpoint practice, check.

Fish Eyed Fool, 5.10b, matches my hardest onsight grade but is substantially longer and more sustained. I would say the technical crux is about halfway, but the real crux is right at the top when my arms almost fell off. I got on it after climbing 6 pitches with the intention of getting a first glimpse for future redpoint efforts. Therefore, I hung and shook out at every bolt. The climbing was strenuous but fun all the way. The last bolt is roughly 6-7ft below the anchors which are positioned just above a small roof. My first attempt at that last section involved going straight up and then trying to traverse left to the anchors with good, blocky hands. In a nutshell, that probably isn't the best way, and resulted in my biggest lead fall yet, ~10ft. That was when my mind started wandering towards failure, so I tried to rein it back and focus.

I decided the direct route to the anchors (i.e. over the roof) was more promising. I worked some crimpy face moves up to a decent foot ledge with the roof about chest level. A positive, flakey sidepull held me to the wall with my right hand while my left wandered off left under the roof to find a decent hold. I was able to wrist hook around the left side of the wall to relieve some pressure on my right hand, but neither arm could hold my weight alone.

I spent several minutes, really, simply holding on pondering my next movement. The anchors were only 1-2ft above my hand and the bolt was a couple feet below me. What to do? As my muscles screamed for relief, I contemplated taking the whip in order to rest. Then I'd have to climb again, though! Instead, I mustered all my strength to rock up with that sidepull in order to slap the flat top above the anchors. Bam! One hand on, get the other there and adjust the feet. AH, my grip is waning. Hurry, get clip the draw and GRAB! I could barely hold the draw with my left hand as I finagled the rope into the carabiner with my right. I did not want to fall, though.

Now I know I can make every move on Fish Eyed Fool. The next step is to find the right sequences and rests to allow me to efficiently climb it. I look forward to working this inaugural project.

(2) Top cruxes make a climb so much more memorable.

Fish Eyed Fool was just one climb that allowed me to practice commitment. Similarly, Dutch Maiden, 5.10a, made me work for those chains! The top move (at least in my attempt) involved crimping, moving up to unsatisfying feet, and then slapping to a dish. After matching on that dish, I basically campused (read, pull up) to a left hand and pulled up some more. On my first attempt (of that section) I made the moves, but was feeling extraordinary resistance against my efforts. In an act of high gravity, my partner started pulling in slack in response to my crazed grunting, thereby pulling me off the wall. It didn't cost me an onsight or anything and actually allowed me more practice. I successfully made the move and clipped the chains on my second attempt.

Committing to moves is an area on which I am working and progressing. Power bouldering sessions are helping, but doing a boulder problem 50-70ft off the ground is still tough! But making that last move is SO fulfilling. My short memory holds onto it in triumph!

NEW STUFF!

Like Christmas! Today I got a new Black Diamond Quantum 65L pack and 00-2 C3 cams. WOOO! I love new stuff!

This is my first backpack. I did a lot of research and couldn't resist the snaz of the Quantum. It is light and streamlined and only gets lighter with several removable parts.

The C3s, one of my favorite pieces of climbing gear, round out my rack of Cams - 00 to #3.

I will certainly report how I like all this stuff. Look for some updates as I crag some the next couple of months and then shred hardcore in CO in May.

-Peace

Open Doors

Today, after waiting for just over two weeks, I received the good news from Nashville Teaching Fellows. I was accepted to the program to teach secondary math in Metro Nashville schools. Now all I have to do is pass the Praxis and get a job. Woo hoo! I will also hear from Knowles Science Teaching Fellowship on April 1st, which would partner with me for 5yrs while I obtain a masters and start teaching secondary science.

It's crazy to think about how this all started over a year ago. The week before spring break I realized I was not excited about a potential engineering consulting internship. Over the next few days I found Outward Bound, Student Conservation Association, and a camp in CA. Spending the next week in the Grand Canyon solidified my feelings and within two weeks I had landed a summer internship with OB.

That was one of the best decisions I have ever made. It has been a long, arduous road going through engineering while not enjoying it. I am so incredibly relieved to have these opportunities now to follow my heart. The key was that I refused to settle with the expectations of others or with the past. Rather I chose to be proactive, pursue my passions whole heartedly and to turn over my fears to God. He has blessed me abundantly. Throughout this last year, one bible passage has brought me much comfort and peace. That is Psalm 23.

The Lord is my shepherd I shall not want. He makes me to lie down in green pastures. He leads me beside still waters. He restores my soul. He leads me in the paths of righteousness for His namesake.

Though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I fear no evil, for you are with me. Your rod and your staff, they comfort me. You prepare a feast before me in the presence of my enemies. You anoint my head with oil. My cup runs over.

Surely goodness and mercy shall follow me all the days of my life, and I will dwell in the house of the Lord forever.

Good Vibrations

In a nut shell, my climbing experience has followed the following progression: (1) Intro - learning to climb, lead and manage sites, (2) Share - a lot of leading easy sport for organizations and friends, (3) Mind games - focusing on trad leading, runout climbs and managing my thoughts (with help from The Warrior's Way), (4) Strength Building - a lot of gym climbing, harder trad climbs, and pushing sport grades.

This last year brought stages 3 and 4, where I have set goals to lead 5.9 trad and 5.10 sport consistently. My trad leading has really come along to where I am consistently leading 5.8 and have pushed into 5.9 terrain several times. Given the right climb, I think I could even go 5.10. During the trad leading phase though, my strength has been a little neglected in favor of the mental side of things. Acquiring a gym membership has remedied that though. I am now climbing 3-5 times per week (about what I climbed each semester during phase 1 and 2), training in periodization, and getting out of my comfort zone. Committing to climbing was what I really needed to progress to another level. I feel myself getting stronger, more mentally focused, and the climbing results are showing it too!

Connecting the Dots

This weekend I got out 2 days for some awesome climbing. Friday was the hardest (in terms of grades) day of climbing I have ever had! A new buddy and I headed out to South Clear Creek, part of the Obed River drainage towards Knoxville. This was to be my first all sport day in a long while so I wanted to go big!

We warmed up on a 5.9! Before this day, I considered myself a 5.9/5.10 climber, and we started on a 5.9! Soon we hit another 5.9 and then a streak of three 5.10s. Most of my former 5.10 leads could be considered a little soft, but these were both tough and AWESOME! I onsight led all climbs cleanly first except for the first 5.9. Even better, I led my hardest route yet with Brother in Arms, 5.10b. Here is the list: Shadowhawk, 5.9; Superego, 5.9; It, 5.10a; Christine, 5.10; Brother in Arms, 5.10b.

Brother in Arms was the last climb of the day, and I couldn't have asked for a better finish! The climb is maybe a tad overhanging with lots of ~2 knuckle deep horizontals for good holds. I was feeling great, going along until the very top. Facing a steep, bare headwall between the last bolt and the rings, I stepped left to some more horizontals. I knew I had to get some high feet and power up to a horizontal slot several feet above me. The pump was seizing my forearms, my mind was wandering to the thought of the swinging fall, but I went for it. AND I STUCK IT! That feeling of "Wow, I'm still on!" came through me and I was stoked to clip the rings! That committing and powerful finishing move was just what I needed!

It was an incredibly motivating day as I prepare for a trip to Lumpy Ridge and RMNP, CO this May. A couple more great days along with some solid trad leads will prepare me for a safe and solid trip!

Good Company Makes a Great Day!

Friday was an awesome day of climbing - one of the best I've had. On top of that, I had great conversations with my friend throughout the day. I hope this is the beginning of a good friendship and climbing partnership.

To follow up that stellar day, I went to the always fun King's Bluff on Saturday with my gal, her brother and his girlfriend. We had a blast climbing some relatively easy stuff - 5.5, 5.4, 5.7, 5.8. I was on cloud nine from the day before and feeling a little sore, so I stuck to leading good climbs for them. I really enjoy climbing with the girlfriend! It's just fun! Even as I continue to get stronger and better, I know I can always have a blast at the crag with her.

So --- 2 awesome days as spring starts here in Tennessee. I'm excited to enjoy the sun and the flowers as spring progresses. This will be my first summer in Nashville, too, so I'm excited about that!

Staying a Beginner

Climbing, like life, is a continuous progression. Most of us start either in the gym or on a top-roping trip. I climbed for the first time at a freshman orientation program at Great Stone Door State Park in TN. It took about 18mos before I finally climbed again at the indoor wall. I was training for a trip to Rocky Mtn National Park and Lumpy Ridge. There I climbed multipitch for the first time, cleaned a route for a first time, and led a sport climb for the first time as well. Since that first lead on what I like to call "Gary's Nightmare Arete - 5.13R/X," I have gotten hooked on climbing.

We all want to progress at something, to become good, to get recognized. I am not a great climber. That first time in Estes I got shut down by 5.7 cracks learning how to jam. Even though I now lead 5.8 trad and 5.10 sport, I still have days where I feel like a girl scout. This week was an example of how within progress, there still lies occasional under performances.

Tennessee Wall

Sunday was a gorgeous day at the beautiful sandstone mecca of TWall. The last time I was there, I dragged my way up a 5.7 named Ribbon Cracks. This time was different because I was mentally prepared. I've led 5.9 in Joshua Tree. I've led 5.10 sport climbs. With that mindset of confidence (based on prior performance and realism), I was able to push through some tough and really satisfying climbs, including the mega-classic, "Golden Locks." I give credit to The Warrior's Way method of thinking.

Table Rock

I first climbed at Table Rock, NC, during the fall break of 2007. It was on Jim Dandy and The Daddy where I took my first leads in a multipitch setting. This trip I was the one introducing others to multipitch. I led the first 2 pitches of Cave Route up to lunch ledge. There, the group went over some rappelling practices and such. Then, we set off to the top. The 3rd pitch of Cave Route goes up to Lightning Ledge. The next pitch to the top has two variations of 5.7. I chose the one to the left, scrambled up some easy, lichen-covered rock, and then reached a small roof. Right there the climbing stopped. I pondered moves, assessed holds, worried about my marginal cam placement, and just couldn't commit to the next move. I down climbed, and my partner and I rapped to the ground. In just one day I was back in the dumps, wondering why I couldn't climb 5.7. Oh my...

Linville Gorge

One day and nearly a thousand feet of elevation change later, I redeemed myself on The Daddy. Given it is usually only 5.6, but I loved every foot of it. In addition to a couple easy pitches of 5.4/5.5, I took some 5.8 variations (one w/o knowing it). I decided that I was going to do it. I envisioned success, and when the going got tough, I overcame. The last pitch (linking 4 and 5) was awesome! Knowing it was nearly 200ft, I started trying to conserve gear (slings actually) over the initial easy terrain. Focusing on placing gear in good rest stances and when the rock afforded placement opportunities, I ran it out a little (or a lot)! The final dihedral to the finish was super sweet! It was really awesome to finish the trip on such a great note - standing atop the mummy buttress, overlooking the stunning gorge.

I may never be a "great" climber. I may never climb harder than 5.10, who knows. I will be okay with never climbing 5.12 as long as I remain progressing. Life is a journey, a continual learning experience, and I desire to be its student.

This morning I read a commencement speech from Steve Jobs. He ends his inspiring speech with these words from The Whole Earth Catalog: "Stay hungry. Stay foolish." I want to live an adventure. Tomorrow, I fly to Philadelphia to interview for a teaching fellowship. After 4 yrs of working for a BE in Chemical Engineering from Vanderbilt, I am hoping to enter the unknown again as a secondary math or science teacher. Even if I'm the best teacher in the world, I know my students will teach me even more than I ever could teach them.

We LOVE Adventure

We're all familiar with e-Harmony and its arbitrary number of compatibility for matching singles. I didn't need eHarmony or anything else to know that my girlfriend and I were compatible when we started getting to know each other during the fall of 2009. We discussed life, religion, politics, our fears, and our desires while training for our first marathon. Since then we have run 2 marathons and a 50k together, side by side. If you want to test the compatibility of a relationship, run 31 miles together.

Alternatively, do some multipitch climbing together - tied into the same rope, relying on the other. Last August, I visited my gal in the Sawtooth Mountains of Idaho. There, we naively lugged my 10.3mm x 70m rope into the back country to climb on Super Slab (across the valley from notorious Elephant's Perch, which was too committing and too hard for us). True to it's name, the Super Slab is a large slab - lower angle at the bottom with some cracks up top. So . . . we just scurried (and by scurrying I mean uncomfortably free soloing up ~5.7 unprotected slab). The second pitch (or first roped pitch) was awkward, and like the party before us, we bailed (off unsettling slings and pitons, at that). In two pitches, we got to see how each of us responds to stress.

All of this is to say how important ADVENTURE is to our relationship. It is awesome to be with someone who values it as much as I do both in the outdoors and life (we are both going to teach after graduating with economics and engineering degrees).

This weekend, we explored some new climbing and hiking in the Chattanooga area. Rather than going to the classic areas of Tennessee Wall or Sunset Park, she and I decided to go to the roadside local crag called LEDA. It was all we could have asked for too - convenient, sport, trad, and lots of easy routes. I led five routes, four of which she followed - 4, 5.7 sport climbs and 1 trad route. The last sport climb, "Speedway Boogie" and the trad line were great! The bottom of the 7 was a sweet finger crack leading to some fun face climbing. The 8 had a steep, bouldery start and then followed a cool hang crack to some ledges above. It was exactly the confidence booster I needed coming off of last week's disappointing day at TWall. I felt great about my gear! My cam choices and placements were quick and correct. I also experimented with keeping my slings on my harness rather than slung on the shoulder. It was a lightbulb going off in my head, making all the clips fast and easy rather than fumbling with slings and extra biners.

After a solid day of climbing, we headed to the Great Stone Door of the South Cumberland State Park to camp and hike. Dinner, mm mm mmmm, was delicious! The gf prepared marinated chicken and steak for fajitas - YEAH! We had some chips, Trader Joe's pineapple salsa, and guac to go with it. Breakfast was just as satisfying with some egg and cheese sandwiches.

Seeing the Stone Door was quite nostalgic for me. I had not been back since Aug of 2006, where my climbing (and outdoor adventure) began with WilSkills orientation program. It was pretty cool to reminisce of those first frustrating climbing moves. We did an 7 or 8 mile loop around the park among the barren trees of the park. Ever since this summer's stay in CO, I cannot help but see the similarities between the east and the west. Talus, mountains, river gorges all look very similar except for rock types and vegetation. The glory of God's creation is really pretty incredible! I am ever-grateful for the opportunity to share the joy and adventure of it with a partner.

Where Your Head At?

Every step off the ground and onto a rock face requires a degree of mental strength and awareness. A climber, especially while leading, must identify, mitigate, and justify the risks he or she will face. It was that preparation that I lacked this past weekend during my first trip to the famous Tennessee Wall. As a result, I felt like a scared girl scout greeted at the door by a grumpy, overweight, hairy man who has no desire to buy her cookies. It was a tough day . . .

Being the first nice day in months, every trad climber in the tristate area headed to TWall on Saturday. The Vandy Outdoor Rec also benefited from the glorious weather, which was one of the few highlights of the day for me. Given the busy nature of the area, my group decided to head climbers left to the underutilized areas of TWall. As one might expect, the trail was rougher and the climbs dirtier.

The first climb I got on was Ribbon Cracks, 5.7. The discontinuous crack systems scaled a vertical wall of sandstone of about 50ft. Sparing you the details, It was the longest lead I have ever had. The moves were not hard, exposed, or hairy. My mind was a frail as J-e-l-l-o, however. One day later, my muscles are sore from all the hanging and over gripping. Every move seemed intimidating as my mind wandered to falling, wishing, and general unpleasantness. After several hangs on gear and one final move on the upper slab, I eventually made it to the rings. I do not EVER recall being so happy to clip the chains!

Hindsight is still less than 20/20. My best analysis is that I simply did not prepare myself mentally before the climb. Why? I don't know! It should be apparent to me by now that I NEED several minutes to visually scout out the route holds and placements, relax and center my mind and body - even if it is just 5.7. I also know that progressing in difficulty is key to my success on any given day. I should start SUPER easy and then move on with confidence. That first route can make or break a day for me right now, unfortunately.

Where to From Here?

Well, I must continue working on my lead head. I must take the time to focus completely before a climb and continue to work through the climb with confidence and commitment.

To be efficient and calm on trad climbs, I must become more comfortable with my gear. I spend far too much time and energy choosing and placing gear rather than climbing. With every second that passes while I place a piece, my muscles tire and my mind wanders. My remedy is to practice placing pieces with speed and precision ON THE GROUND. I want to be able to efficiently place gear on the first try, which requires intimate familiarity with my gear, including which sizes correspond to my fingers and hands.

I must learn from the day and move on rather than getting down about it. Outward Bound founder Kurt Hahn said that there is no learning without reflection. Too much reflection can put a mind in a bad place, though, so I'm going to move on. See you soon, T-Wall!

Hot Springs and Cold Belays

Hey ya'll. My boy Justin posted a great trip report from Montana ice climbing. Check it out!

Hot Springs and Cold Belays

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Subjective Success

The Gym

Recently my relationship with climbing progressed to a new level. I made the big commitment to buying a gym membership. "Wow," you may say, "getting serious." I had resisted for a long time, but the time has come for me to focus on getting better. Up to this point, my development has been slow and steady. I can presently lead most 5.9 sport climbs and 5.8 trad climbs. I'm very comfortable with climbing systems. Now it's time to get strong!

Anyway, a friend and I were nearing the end of our session after working up the ratings. I worked up from 5.8 to the 5.10s and was getting on a 5.10c (which shut me down with its useless foot jibs). For the first time in my climbing career, I simply wanted the number. I got on that climb only because it was 5.10c. It was the next rung of the ladder. Maybe the gym is just meant to be used in that impersonal way - just a tool to get new bragging rights. Then again, maybe that lack of passion was why I didn't climb the route.

I plan on climbing inside a lot this semester (just as a means to improve my fitness of course - not actually to enjoy the beautiful act of climbing which is confined to the limitless canvas of the outdoors). Maybe I'll do speed workouts or efficiency (fewest moves) workouts. Maybe I'll lift some weights and get my yoga stretch on. We'll see. Regardless, this is a new phase in my climbing life.

The Outdoors

"Today might have to be about subjective success . . ." That was my comment to my girlfriend as we walked the Foster Falls climbing trail. The creekside cliff line is known for its steep sandstone and offers little warm up.

She and I got into the campsite after dark the night before. I lost my headlamp, so she was leading the way. I thoroughly enjoy walking by moonlight, actually. This summer, I would often not use my headlamp around camp during an Outward Bound course (the artificial light ruins my night vision anyway - AND my x-ray vision for that matter). We were lucky to have the campsite to ourselves.

Dinner consisted of fresh white flatbread, tomato sauce with herbs de provence, cheese, pineapple, and ham - otherwise known as Hawaiian pizza. This being our second pita-pizza-cooking session, we have mastered the technique and thoroughly enjoyed the meal aside chips, salsa, and guac. MMmmm!

We eventually turned in for the night. "Is that people?" As a matter of fact, yes - ten boys with and some parents actually. It was okay though. They weren't too rowdy and only collected half the forest worth of sticks for a bonfire. Regardless, we slept great.

In a nut shell, the weather was not ideal for climbing. All day the temps were around 50 and the rock sometimes wet and the wind blowing. At least the climbing was hard though! :) We 'warmed up' on Jacobs Ladder, 5.8. Next we walked to the dihedrals which were soaked and then back to Jimmywood. There are a couple 5.9s there, so I figured I lead one or two. Maybe she could try them as well. "Dang man! Take up rope!" Miss Prissy shut me down. I hung at both of the cruxy sections in route to one of my longest routes (time wise!) since I started leading. At least my fingers were peeling and freezing though . . .

You might say it was a tough day on the rock, but I'd say it was another fun adventure as a couple. We had fun camping and eating! We got some beautiful hiking! We both were challenged! We walked down to the raging falls and enjoyed a nice lunch before driving back to Nashville. I had fun!

Getting a tan in Joshua Tree

What better way to spend winter break than in sunny California, shreddin the gnar? That's why I signed on to lead a week long climbing excursion to the monzogranite filled mojave with Vandy's Outdoor Rec Center. It was a great week filled with slabby faces, sparse protection, fine cracks, and lots of relaxing.

My goals for the trip were to develop my trad leading by leading a lot of moderate gear routes and to push myself on some harder routes. All things considered, it was a very successful trip. All together I led nine climbs between 5.6 and 5.9. I completed four of six routes on my tick list:

(1) Southwest Corner of Headstone, 5.6 - a very exposed corner hanging

out over air. We topped out and enjoyed one of many stunning sunrises.

(2) Overhang Bypass, 5.8 - this intimidating two pitch route ascends easy cracks and slabs up to a big roof. After belaying from a stance, the second pitch takes one across a hand traverse under the roof and up onto a finishing slab. That second pitch is short but full value, and the views and belays are awesome!

(3) Walk on the Wild Side, 5.7+ - I decided to do this route about two months ago as soon as I saw a CLIMBING magazine article about it. It is two long pitches of smooth slab. The first pitch is the crux pitch while the second is pretty cruiser. After starting as a party of two with my buddy, we combined with a party of three and TRed their leader. Sitting at the belay, I couldn't help but hum the namesake tune. "Hey man, take a walk on the wild side."

(4) Colorado Crack, 5.9 - This is near the VERY enjoyable splitter crack Gem, 5.8, in the Conan's Corridor area of Jumbo Rocks. We waited about 2 hrs to climb due to a party of goobs who had problems rappelling the route and then insisted on climbing it over and over. One woman sounded like she birthed twins on route. She took long enough to go through labor, as well. Finally, I got on it. It was a sweet and varied route. The bottom was pretty easy on some flakes and crimps. The middle has a wide crack and a strange pseudo-chimney section through a scoop. It then tops out on a nice hand crack. I was psyched to complete it as my first 5.9 trad lead! After I put in my first piece, I had to down climb and grab my slings which I left on the ground (doh!). Upon topping out, I had only stoppers and a 00 C3 camalot. Therefore, I slung a big boulder and sat down to belay the second with more gear. While shivering in the cool breeze, I was inundated with more goobs who could have killed themselves with their ineptitude. It makes me cherish the solid program that Vandy has!

Some other favorites include: Fun Stuff (5.7), Toe Jam (5.7), Lickity Split (5.7) and Gem (5.8).

Our groups was awesome! It worked out where a friend and I led the moderate group while our boss led some of the more difficult climbs with others. I was really pleased with the climbing, the location, the groups - everything. It was a great trip!

Las Vegas

I don't like Vegas, and I don't like being around a lot of people. Therefore, the airport experiences and Red Rocks were not awesome. Getting to Vegas, we were delayed several hrs when one participant's luggage was lost. After buying stuff from WalMart and Goodwill, it was all found and we set out to drive through the creepy Joshua Tree covered Mojave bye moonlight. We came back to LV for 1.5 days of climbing at Red Rock Canyon. We didn't have time to do the classic multipitch lines, but we got some good single pitch stuff at the Magic Bus and the Black Corridor. I led 5.9 and 5.10a sport routes along with some others. I'd love to do some of the long classics like Cat-in-the-Hat, 5.6, in the future. Maybe over spring break.